I have an ice fishing rod that needs the tip top replaced. I've built several rods but this will be me first "repair". Any tips on how to remove the old tip top?
Thanks.

Most factory tips are adheared with a heat activated ferrule cement, put something through the ring so you can pull on the tip at the same time heat the tip with a flame. Stay off of, and well away from the blank witrh the flame. Apply a good pulling force you want the tip to break free as soon as possible, heat is not good for a blank at this juncture in its existance. You can buy ferrule cement and reattach the new tip. using heat once again to melt the cement, (I pre load a few varing size tip barrels with ferrule cement melting it well down into the barrel so I can still check the fit of the existing blank and carry these in my tackle box just-in-case) Lots of ppl use epoxy and I might for saltwater applications but for lighter freshwater ice fishing sick with the cement that is easily removable with moderate heating

I generally use 5 min epoxy whidh I feel gives a better bond and can also be removed with heat. In a pinch, I will use the hot melt rod glue.

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Flame if you have to, but a heat gun has more safety margin. I have been using a heat gun with a soldering attachment that makes it easier to heat all around the guide easier. Better to start with lower heating and work up from that until it comes free. I just grab it and twist it off with a rag in my hand.

heat until it comes off but dont go nuts with the heat

i use the tip top adhesive from flexcoat and it works fine just heat the stick let it drip into the tip...when you ready to put it on the rod heat the tip up a little and slide the top on

though i think mikes suggestion with the 5 min epoxy might be better as you dont need the heat to put it on and might be better for the blank

The heat used in application of a ferrule cement is marginal compared with the heat necessary to remove an epoxied tip. I generally stick with ferrule cement and if a client has a problem with the tip coming off, I will then use epoxy, but up until then I won't chance overheating the blank. If a persisting problem presents itself, I fix it. I will go as far as to ask what cement the customer might want (explaining the options/drawbacks and bonuses, I also supply an extra tackle box tip-top in case one loosens while in use) Now as I say, if your building a musky rod or Heavy duty salt water rod then the extra strength epoxy gives is worth the trouble, as the forseeable repeated replacement, due to the barrel loosening might become an issue...I then stress a stronger adheriance method..BUT when employing the "wait and see what happens method" for something to become an issue.... with the initial use of ferrule cement does not jepordize the blank. I have yet to hear of a production rod Mfg using epoxy, although a sound thought in some applications. and they might well be already as I work mainly with freshwater UL rods, but still fish for big quarry, relitive to the outfit and recommended pound test..