G'day Guys,

Well I've sort of rectified my previous problems with refinishing a blank.

I couldn't easily get hold of Krylon Fusion so decided to use Tamiya PS paint. Its quite good stuff and is available in a wide range of colurs including metallics. I sprayed 2 coats on the blank and it turned out nicely. Last night I decided to coat with Permagloss. Unfortunately the solvent in the Permagloss has removed some of the paint. I don't know if this is because I only let the paint dry for about 24 hours before applying Permagloss or just because the two are not compatible. Luckily it has only thinned the paint finish slightly near the foregrip so I can get away with it as this area will be covered with some form of decorative wrap. On my next rod the finish will be more important, so I want to "get it right".

So I have a couple of questions:

1/ Should I let the paint dry longer before applying Permagloss?

2/ Should I make the effort to get Krylon instead? Is Krylon affected in this way by Permagloss?

3/ A previous response to one of my posts suggests using the Krylon Fixative over some paints before applying Permagloss. Would this be good insurance and make chasing down a local source for Krylon worthwhile?

Thankyou in advance for your responses.

Jason



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/10/2007 06:36PM by Jason Groombridge.

About the only thing you can do when applying something with a "hot" solvent like PermaGloss over another coating, is to do a test of the two products. I'd let the paint dry a bit longer, perhaps 3 days at the minimum, and then apply the PG in a quick swipe down the blank with a saturated pad. Wait an hour and do it once more. See what happens.

...........

Jason,

I've never used Tamiya paint, but HAVE had good luck with a product sitting right next to it on the Hobby store shelf. It a Testors product designed for "flexible" Lexan R/C car bodies (it contains a flex agent) called PACTRA. No ill effects when coated with Permagloss and have never had it crack or "check" under the Permagloss like I have had happen with other spray paints when the rod is flexed. It can be purchased in a spray can or in a small bottle for Air Brush application.

They have a broad range of colors including candys & pearls, but you'll need to ask if the color you desire is opaque or translucent. Many of their colors are translucent and are designed to be applied over a base coat of White, Silver or Gold to give a "candy" effect. I've got a blank that I just did in Candy Blue over Metallic Silver that looks outstanding. Very 'deep" looking after the Permagloss was applied.

Worth a look.

Mark Griffin
[]
C&M Custom Tackle
San Dimas, California

Tom, Mark,

Thanks for your replies.

I used a foam pad to apply the PG. Might have to try something a bit less abrasive next time, maybe a coffee filter or a peice of cloth. I gather that PG applied in this way will not be a really high gloss, at least that's the way it's turned out on my rod. Seems to be more like a satin or semi-gloss finish.

I'll get hold of some Testors and give it a whirl. The Tamiya paint I used was for the same purpose, polycarbonate RC bodies, but I think it is acrylic so was affected by the Permagloss. Luckily my local hobby shop can get me Testors, as I still can't track down a local source for Krylon Fusion.

Bit of a problem living on a small island hanging off the bottom of a bigger island. Stuff can be hard to get!

Cheers

Jason

Hi Jason,
I often have to recolour rods when doing rebuilds.
I use rod epoxy with the colour added. Works very well.
The downside is you do need a rod lathe to get the thin cover you need. Also heat source, I use an old hair dryer with restricted nozel flow. Many years ago we used thinned Humbrol paints from the model shops
2 or 3 coats. That can be applied by hand with fine brush, (signwriters brushes are great ). Give the finished rod a couple of days to harden right off. I like to stand all my rods outside (weather permitting), nature dries better than we can.
As Tom suggests do a trial run. I know Erskine Epoxy will work with this method but cannot comment on other brands even though we do use them.
Mark might be on to something, any paint which can key to plastic should hold up.
Good Luck
Paul

I fish therefore I am.
www.hookeduprods.com

We've tried one of just about everything and:

1) Had the same problem with the Krylon paints, be it enamel or acrylic, when coated with Permagloss
2) Had a little better luck when coating with Gudebrod Rod Varnish over the paints (apparently, not as volatile as the Permagloss)
3) Had great luck with colors mixed with High-build.
4) Haven't tried Testor's PACTRA (which has been around since I was building models as a kid), but intend to.

I can tell you that the most expensive approach is to color the high-build material. It's also the most labor-intensive and does need at least a drying motor to rotate the blank (no spray cans, unless you want to figure out how to use a spray can with it, and can get it done before the stuff thickens up) But so far, it's the best.

Uncle Russ
Calico Creek Rods

2)

When I've used Permagloss over paint, it's been Krylon (with no problems). I think the most important thing is to let the paint cure very well, so that there are no volatiles left. I waited five days, but three might be enough, depending on temperature and humidity (more of the first and less of the second). My experiences with spar varnish and varnish/oil finishes tell me that finishes continue to cure for a long time after they are "dry"--weeks, in some cases. I am about to test Permagloss on wraps over a varnished finish, but I'm waiting about three weeks for the last varnish coat to cure before trying it.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/11/2007 07:26PM by Arthur Mayfield.

Guys,

Thanks for the further info.

It might be that Arthur is right and I was too impatient to get the rod finished and wrapped. I'll wait longer on my next one before applying the Permagloss to give the paint time to cure fully.

As I don't have a drying motor yet, paint is really my only option at this stage, but I might have a go at coloured epoxy at some later stage.

Hopefully after these two rods are done I can build one on a new blank, rather than refinishing. I'm looking forward to that as there are a few less steps to worry about!

Jason

I had the same problem with two florescent paints that were not Krylon. I washed the first coat off and repainted. After waiting 48 hours I sprayed a single coat of Krylon Crystal Clear on the blanks. This provides a very thin barrier to keep the Permagloss from toiuching the paint beneath. The Krypon is very quick drying.. but I chose to wait a day before applying a thin coat of Permagloss. The paint remained perfect and the finish was superb. I like to apply the PG with a piece of coffee filter while spinning very fast under power on a rod lathe.

Dave

My experience with PG is that it just about melts anything.The trick is to get it on and leave it alone before it melts the base color.Like Dave said above apply quickley,also dont rebrush after you apply and it will most likely work.

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

Thanks again Guys for the further input.

If it wasn't for you guys I'd still be mucking around trying to get this rod right.

Regards

Jason

Has anyone tried spraying PG using an air brush? This might eliminate disturbing the underlaying paint.



Danny D. Will
Expatriated Conch

Danny,

That’s how I do it and it works like a charm. You need a large tip on the gun though or it will actually throw the PG in kind of a “spatter”.

Last time I posted about this I got “chastised” for not pointing out the volatility of airborne PG. The solvent is flammable so take precautions with open flame, do it in a well ventalated area and wear a mask to avoid breathing the fumes… End of disclaimer.


Mark Griffin
[]
C&M Custom Tackle
San Dimas, California

Mark, they must know that you are big enough man to take chastising. Aerosol paint can be pretty volatile too, along with alcohol lamps, propane torches, and butane lighters and those posts get a bye. LOL.

Yeah, I was kind of thrown under the bus by a vendor pushing an upcoming "non-flamable" new product. Still haven't seen the product. Maybe he had Karma issues with it...

Mark Griffin
[]
C&M Custom Tackle
San Dimas, California