I have been reading this board for many years and now find myself trying to use a spatula for applying finish. I have tried the metal style that artists use and a few similar types right down to the McDonld's coffee stirrer.
I like the way the finish goes on and it is easier, it seems, to control bubbles and etc.
The problem I am having is that when I have finished the coating and am trying to get the spatula off the area I coated it always draws some of the finish and then I get a slight hump that I have to try and get rid of.
Am I applying too much finish or ? What is the proper technique to use.
Thank you.

Tom Hartman

The finish will level up if you leave it alone, the less you mess with the finish the better the results. At least it works best for me.

If that is happening I would suspect you are messing around with the finish way out into the end of the time period that particular finish should be applied. Try to speed up your process of application and work with the finish before it starts to "tack up".

Dump it on, wick it off!! Seriously, you're spending way to much time if it's thickening on you. I believe that I get a much better finish when turning by hand. I usually apply liberally with a "custom spatula" from McDonald's (individually wrapped) and get the whole area covered. When it starts to sag on the bottom, I remove the sags and rotate rod 180 and let sag again, removing excess. I do this for about an hour or so. With Threadmaster, it is usually set enough in an hour or so to stop turning (check to make sure though) or turn the fryer on.



Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/07/2007 02:27PM by Mike Barkley.

My method is like Mike's. I use several different items for a spatula. I normally use either a small stainless steel spatula that I bought from Joe Kasuba at the show a year or two ago or a plastic credit card type object. When I was traveling quite a bit a couple of years ago, I accumulated a bunch of those credit card like keys that are common among most hotel and motel chains. I just trim them to suit the width of the wraps I'm trying to cover.

I agree with others preceding me have said as far as the epoxy application. A lttle bit of heat may help your epoxy level out but be certain of whether or not it is recommended for the type that you're using; some types don't react well to this type of treaetment.

Sam Stoner

TKirkman had a very good article in the library regarding this. This is the method that Mike is refering to and I use it exclusively and it makes all apoxy issues go away. "dump it on", "let it sag", "wick it off", rotate 180, let it sag, wick it off. Its the fastest most effective method of applying apoxy and you will end up with flat, no bubbles, nice looking apoxy. Never fails. Makes apoxy fun (imagine that).

I use a method much like Sam described. I apply the finish with a popscile stick split in half while rotating the rod at anywhere from 4- 40 rpm. I remove the excess with a piece of credit card. If I observe bubbles in the finish, I apply moderate heat from a hair dryer while continueing rotation. I then transfer the rod to a 200 rpm dryer and rotate for 30-60 min. (Warning- If you still have excess finish after the slow application step, You will have epoxy flying everywhere at 200 rpm.) I will then transfer the rod back to a slower dryer. After I have leveled the finish with the credit card, I do not touch the finish again. It will level itself.

I get my "credit card" material from junk mail people trying to get me to apply for the real thing. I have a good supply of these.

Ed Smith

Ok ! When you turn by hand and you say <dump it on > < let it sag > rotate 180 + repeat .Now is that a single guide at a time or do you do three to four guides at the same time before the apoxy startes
to set ???
For as you get older and you become all thumbs,and have carpal tunnel in both hands, you just can't seem to work the apoxy that fast.
Anybody have that same problem ,and have any remedies ???

Thanks <<<<DON AT HOBBYRODS>>>>

Joe Kassuba gave walked me through the process of applying finish epoxy with the spatula he sells. His spatula is a great little tool. I upgraded mine with a short piece of narrow surgical tubing to beef up the handle section. It makes it much easier to use and very comfortable.

This is my routine based upon what I learned from Joe at the Rod Building Show. (just one more great reason to attend)
It may not be exactly as he taught me but it has worked well for me.


1- Load a small amout of epoxy on the pointed end of the spatula.
2- Rest the spatula edge on the blank so it is touching then edge of the wrap.
3- Rotate the blank so that a thin line of epoxy is deposited on the blank and seals the end of the wrap.

****
Fill the gaps under each guilde foot with a small amount of epoxy. I use the tip of the spatula.. a toothpick is good.. or a the end of a paper clip. I usually do this between steps 2 and 3. You can do it anytime before starting to remove the excess epoxy. It helps if you raise the blank slightly so that the epoxy runs down under the guide foot.
***********
4- Load the spatula with more epoxy than before and make a "Tire" near on the wrap near the edge.
5- Clean the pointed end of the spatula. (a quick swipe with an alcohol soaked paper towel is sufficient)
6- Load the flat end of the spatula with more than enough epoxy to cover the entire wrap. Apply to the wrap.
7- While rotating the blank... barely touch the edge of the flat end against the underside of the wrap. Tilt the bottom edge of the spatula in the direction you want to move the epoxy. At slow speed; simply move the bulk of the glob toward the tire you made at each end of the wrap. The tire will help prevent you from going too far. It will be easy to even it all out. If the the epoxy is dripping off you added too much. You will soon learn how much is sufficient to cover completely and have extra.
8- Once you have the entire wrap covered.. go onto the next wrap.
9- When all wraps are covered... set the rod on the 0 axis or 180 axis. (Guides up or down) Watch carefully as the epoxy sags to the bottom. Swipe off the excess without touching the blank... just the epoxy.
10- Rotate the blank 180 degrees and let sit until there is enough epozy to swipe off.
11- Repeat this process until enough epozy has been removed to make for a nice even coating.
12- Put on a motorized dryer for final drying. The finish will settle and form a smooth even surface.

The steps go quickly. You can do all the edges first.. or all edges and "Tires".. and then go back and do the Gaps under the guide feet.. and then the wrap...

The main thing is to develop a system that lets you do all guides in jsut a few minutes. Keep a paper towel with Iso Alcohol handy before you start.

As has been advised by others, the less you mess with the epoxy the better.

Good luck.

Dave

Donald,
you should have more than enough time to do all of the guides at one time before the finish starts to set. When the finish starts to sag on the bottom, just take your brush, spatula, etc and go right down the blank knocking off the sags then rotate the blank 180 and wait for the sags again. What finish are you using??? I guide should only take a minute or so each. I can't think of any finish that has a working pot life shorter than 30-45 minutes. Once you put it on, don't spend any time trying to spread/brush it around or tinker with it. It's a liquid and will level itself if you let it. One very important thing is that the blank has to be LEVEL for the finish to level. There was a great article/pictorial in a fairly recent issue of Rodmaker that will get you a perfect finish every time. Well worth the price for a copy

Dave, We were typing at the same time!!

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/07/2007 09:41PM by Mike Barkley.

Thanks Mike >>I have been useing flex coat high build, have been going to try threadmaster just to compare.Also going to have to go and look up the article. Some how along the the way I missed reading it.
<<<< DON AT HOBBYRODS >>>>

We use heat (yes, hair dryer) to remove bubbles if needed, but we've found that if we mix the stuff right (let it cloud, then "release") the bubbles usually are minimized. Applying the finish with a stiffer brush or spatula-type thingy (popsicle stick, real spatula, etc) really does remove most of the bubbles anyway. A thinner coat makes for less bubbles, too.

We've done application without a motor, turning the blank by hand. We've done it with a 6rpm motor. It's all in what you get comfortable with. When I had no drying motor I turned the rod on my winding jig, by hand, once every ten-fifteen minutes or so, of an hour or two.

Uncle Russ
Calico Creek Rods

when you say dump it on do you actually mean dump it on or do you mean load a lot on and spread it out then leave it? when i see dump it on i imagine turning the cup of epoxy over and letting it run onto the wrap

Joe from His rod shop has a tutorial on using the spatula..

[hisrodshop.com]


now, if only i can get my hands on one..

-
Give a man a fish, he'll eat for a day..
Teach a man to fish, he'll be broke!

Jon,

Not literally. Load you brush/spatula/whatever and hold it just above the blank and while handturning the blank, lowere it to the blank and let it flow onto the blank. When it's covered, quickly go to the next guide. Resist the temptation to "brush" it around or play with it. When they're all done, you can do a quick check for bare spots.

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

ahh ok thats probably why i dont get a good looking cover because i play with it too much....im going to try it that way now instead thanks for clearing that up :)