I am in the process of finally building a rod for myself. Its going to be a 6' L spinning rod. I would like to build it with a split grip and a skeleton fuji seat. My question is how do I decide on a spot for the seat? I can get a general idea but im wondering if theres an actual tip weight or length in front of the seat I should be shooting for. I have heard there is some personal prefferances on tip feel but Im looking for a place to start.

Second, how is an aluminum winding check fitted and glued on? Are smaller ones sanded in order to get them to fit or are larger checks built up with thread on the rod and then slipped over? Thanks for the help. G

The realseat location is going to be based on how long of a rear grip you want. I would make sure to locate it so the rod feels good for you to use. Balancing is an issue all in itself. For myself, if the rod is going to be used for a technique where I am working a lure on the bottom, like a jig, I like to have the rod balance horizontal and the pivot point be at the reelseat or just in front of it. Now I try to put the rod together with the lightest guides I can and watch how much thread I use for the wraps. I assemble the handle how I want it to be. With that all done, and the rod balances the way I want, then all is done. If it doesn't balance the way I want, I will add some weight in the handle, which has been discussed here many times in the past. I do try to make it so I am adding the least amount of weight needed to balance the rod.

Same here. Base the seat location on where you want the rear grip to fall. Often, you don't want to fight the fish with your write, so the rear of the rod needs to fall back under your forearem or even your elbow. But, an ultra-light will only stand so much pressure to begin with so you may not need the leverage added by fighting the fish from your arm instead of your wrist. Do you need to make two-handed casts? That's something else to consider.


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The split grip is strictly for looks and weight savings. If I lost a few grams off the grip area, would I want to move the seat ahead to compensate for the weight loss?

How about the question regarding the aluminum winding checks? How do I attach them to EVA, Hypalon, or cork? Do I ream them to fit the blank or build up the blank with a few wraps in order to get it to fit? Thank you again, I appreciate everyones help.

A taper on the leading edge of your foreegrip mates nicely with the O.D. of the winding check. The I.D. of the winding check needs to be reamed, dremiled out, or correctly speced out and purchased (knowing its specific location) to be just bigger than the blank at the location it will be positioned, You don't want the I.D. so big the thread that butts up to it leaves a gap. This is your margin of error = Sz A thread being .009" dia. Doubled safley .015" tolerance. If the check was purchased and if the I.D. is too large you may have to build up some thread in the I.D. to make a smoother sloping transition from check to thread

Hi Grant,
Personally I am picky with the balance of the rods I build and what I have done is to mock up the rod as best I can to find the balance point that I like. This has gone as far as taping the guides to the blank with scraps of coating for the extra weight the coatings and guides will add to the blank. The reel seat has been the biggest guesstament with either arbors taped to the exterior or approximated amouts of Rod Bond.


Tight wraps and lines,
Wylie