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wood handle finish
Posted by:
Ron Petley
(---.autobahn.mb.ca)
Date: May 10, 2006 11:22PM
I was looking at the photos of wood handles and Russ Miller has a super curly maple handle reel seat combo that is very bright. Russ or any one else know what sort of finish would be waterproof and still remain bright and not dark and or yellowish.?
Cheers Ron Re: wood handle finish
Posted by:
Robert Tignor
(---.hsd1.va.comcast.net)
Date: May 11, 2006 06:23AM
Ron , the wood handles that we sell at Fishsticks 4u have nothing but Flexcoat rod finish , no stain . When all areas are covered it is waterproof and not slippery when wet or dry . They sure add to looks of a rod . I was telling the person that makes these how good they looked , he said if you like the way they look ,you will love the way they fish because of the increase of sensitivity you get from wood over cork . Fishsticks4u on the sponsor list . Re: wood handle finish
Posted by:
Anonymous User
(---.proxy.aol.com)
Date: May 11, 2006 07:18AM
Ron,
If your looking to get that very high glossy wet look then I would use Roberts suggestion of Flexcoat. I have heard of people using other finishes for this too. I do this to the Ice rods I build as they seem to take a beating. Tossing them in buckets, on the floor of the ice shack, In the back of the truck...(When its 10 below zero one tends to shortcut the proper storing of a custom rod..lol) I think that an epoxy finish on wood gives it an extra luster and a very durable layer of protection. It is surprisingly "grippy" and almost a tacky feel when wet, not at all slippery. However, on my open water rods that have wood handles or wood inserts and trim rings, I prefer to simply buff them. I usually use wood that is dried to about 6% moisture content. After latheing and sanding to 400 grit, I apply a CA glue and resand. I then buff them on a fairly firm buffing wheel with either white or brown jewelers compound. (depending on species of wood). After working the compound into the wood, I then buff it on a muslin jewelers wheel and really make it shine. This process is highlighted on Andy's DVD about turning wood on your lathe, its available on his website at the left "Lamar Fishing". This process gives it a nice shine and very smooth feel. If your doing wood inserts or rings in the handle along with cork, it is alot easier to keep the transition nice and flush and smooth from the wood to the cork since there is no added build up in finish surface like there would be if you applied a liquid epoxy finish to the wood. By doing the CA glue application, sanding and then buffing a jewelers compound into the wood, it should have an adequate layer of protection from moisture. There are literally dozens of different methods used by different builders and it should be interesting to hear some of the other guys advice on what works for them. If you have a bench grinder, all you need is a couple buffing wheels and some buffing compound which is a pretty small investment. Jeff Harding Re: wood handle finish
Posted by:
Joe Brenner
(---.swifttrans.com)
Date: May 11, 2006 09:30AM
You could use a piece of stabilized wood and just appy a woodturners wax polish to it.... Re: wood handle finish
Posted by:
Stan Grace
(69.146.116.---)
Date: May 11, 2006 09:34AM
TruOil from Birchwood Casey works well as a finish on most wood. You can find it in most sporting goods stores where it is sold as a gunstock finish. Stan Grace Helena, MT "Our best is none too good" Re: wood handle finish
Posted by:
Bill Moschler
(---.ag.utk.edu)
Date: May 11, 2006 09:50AM
I used Tru-oil and it works fine.
But there is a finish that I would like to try that is probably better. Brownells sells a polyurthane based, wipe on finish called Pro Custom Gunstock Finish. It is reported to be a superior finish, hard and good water resistance. Re: wood handle finish
Posted by:
Russ Miller
(---.lsanca.dsl-w.verizon.net)
Date: May 11, 2006 11:37AM
Ron,
I use Minwax polyurethane finish on all of my wooden handles/inserts. I like to use the satin finish, but you could use the gloss finish to get the "mirror" look. I use 0000 steel wool between coats. Usually two coats suffice. I have dunked my handles in streams/lakes and have never had a problem with the wood swelling. Russ Miller Re: wood handle finish
Posted by:
Chuck Mills
(---.grenergy.com)
Date: May 11, 2006 12:53PM
I just did two spinning handles with Minwax spray spar varnish in satin. It is also available in flat & gloss. I put on three coats. Two coats, dry for the time listed on the label, sand any bumps off, then a final coat. It looks good, and spar varnish is supposed to work well outdoors. Next time I'll try epoxy finish to see how that feels. I was worried about it being slippery but from what I hear it is not.
Chuck Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/11/2006 02:07PM by Chuck Mills. Re: wood handle finish
Posted by:
bill boettcher
(---.nas66.newark2.nj.us.da.qwest.net)
Date: May 11, 2006 01:40PM
Epoxy does get hard over some time. I thin out my epoxy and just wipe on one coat to let it soak in yet give it a semi gloss look. One thin coat also lets it still have a " grip " to the handle. I have found that some people do not like it very shinny.
When I go for a glass look, I put a wet heavy coat on, let dry, light wet sand with 5-600 paper. Then another wet coat. May need three Re: wood handle finish
Posted by:
Ron Petley
(---.autobahn.mb.ca)
Date: May 12, 2006 12:09AM
Thank you all for the great reply. This gives me a few options to try. And Russ that is one great piece of maple you used and you really brought out its qualities. You must be a wood worker gone bad.
Cheers Ron Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
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