Hello All,

I am coming into the home stretch of my first rod, and have a question. I applied a good coat of FC color preserver last night on A size Gudebrod Candy Apple thread. Got good coat on it and it soaked in nicely, my question is how long will it take to come back to the original color. It has gone to like a Scarlet color and I am little upset by this wanted to try to retain that Candy Apple color. Am I wrong in thinking that the color is supposed to return to near original. I applied in good conditions not to hot or cold, and this morning it is still dark. Am I stuck with the darker color now?

Thanks for the help and great forum!

Dave

You will normally lose one shade, depending on the background color you're working over. On top of a dark grey blank, you can expect some loss.

Do keep in mind that when you apply epoxy finish to the wrap, the brightness and sparkle will come back up.

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Tom,

Thanks for the info....I dont know why I thought I could keep the original color, but that is great info to know for future use. Is one really good coat enough before starting epoxy? Yeah the blank I am working with is a St. Croix SCII blank and it is black. Is the only way to keep close to original color by using NCP thread instead of the non NCP thread? OR when epoxy is applied will that also lose shade of the color?

Thanks again Tom for this awesome site!!

Dave

Even with NCP, you'll lose a shade when using it over very dark blanks. NCP combined with CP is the best in terms of absolute color retention. But as you probably know, NCP lacks the sparkly and shine of regular nylon thread. It looks more like paint.

One good coat of CP is usually enough if you didn't thin it and really got things covered. However, on a dark blank like that and with the reds, yellows and golds (goldmetal and goldenrod) it won't hurt you to add one more coat.

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Tom,

thanks again....I got good soaking coat on it last night and it all soaked in rather well. I just set it up on the dryer motor and applied, and I did not thin it went on full strength. I will add another coat tonight when i get home and then tomorrow night will start the epoxy.

Thanks again for the advice

Dave

David, Next time you want a candy apple red-wrap with gold first, then wrap red nylon over the gold- (no cp)- best way to acheive the look!

Eric,

Thanks for that info that is great to know. I have another rod i will start after this one is done and i was going to use the same thread...so that will help for sure.

thanks

Hmmm, to my eye, the scarlet Gudebrod thread is a shade lighter than the candy apple, so I am a little confused about your remark about candy apple thread looking darker--like scarlet--once CP is applied. Also, I am convinced that the milky-white color preservers (FC is one) will brighten thread, even on dark blanks ( I have a piece of gloss black scrap blank with wraps of all of my threads with and w/o CP under epoxy as a color chart, as suggested by a member of this forum).

You might want to give Gudebrod 811 CP a try to get accurate color preservation. The product has its critics, but I dilute it 60:40 isopropyl alcohol:CP and put on 2 coats, and have always been happy with the results.

Patrick

yeah I put one real good soaking coat on the Candy Apple last night and it got darker, maybe Scarlet was bad descritpion just darker than i really wanted it to be. Sounds like it might brighten up little bit after thread epoxy is applied. Yes i used FC and yes it was milky. Have heard quite a bit about the 811 I will try it next rod and see how that goes.....being my first rod maybe what i have is normal on black blank and i will learn more of course the more rods i get to do. Thanks for the info

Dave

Another CP you might want to try is the Glass Coat CP. It is very clear out of the bottle, thin consistency, and puts up less of a fight than the 811 when applying. I have had nice results using the GC.

Rog

David,

Another thing to consider for butt wraps is to use an "underwrap" of silver or gold holographic tape, such as Luhr Tape or some of the holographic material found in fly shops. CP is still required.

Stan

Stan & Roger,

Thanks for the info. All help and ideas going in the notebook...lol.

Thanks again for everything

Thanks to all for your help on this!! I got all the guides epoxied and after that was done the thread did indeed stand out a bit more, although seemingly still shades darker. I then took the rod outside on saturday to look it over and was amazed at how bright and vivid the color was! Obviously i need better lighting in my building area...lol. Anyway just want to give you all the update.

Thanks again

David,

One thing that hasn't been mentioned that will make a big difference when using lighter coloed thread is to paint the blank that will be under the wrap with white paint, or if it's an open wrap, put an underwrap on. Works very well.

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Mike,

More great info from you thanks very much. I think between getting some better lighting in my space..lol, and thinking about silver underwraps, or something such as you have mentioned that should pretty much take care of anything i need. Again I really appreciate it! I just finished my first rod and already have 3-4 others planned....this is worse than any drug addiction I think..lol. Headed to Florida next week for some west coast flats fishing with the new rod, and I will be very happy bending it with the first catch....if I have done everything right and it doesnt explode...lol.

Thanks again to everyone

Dave

Now you're hopelessly addicted. It's about time to reserve your room for the International Rodbuilding Expo in Feb before all the rooms are booked

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!