May want to trim cpl inches from blank. What is the best way to make clean safe cut. Thanks Bill

I use Dremel with cut off wheel. I put a piece of tape arount the blank where I want the cut. Works good for me.

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Bill,

You can also try an Exacto razor saw. Get the very fine blade with a bizzillion teeth. I have one and I also have the matching aluminum mitre box . Comes in very handy for triming off butts too.

.

tip-dremel tool
butt-10" cuttoff saw

If you don't yet have a Dremel-type tool, then an X-ACTO (HOBBY) RAZOR-SAW is a good choice, too. There are TWO different versions of almost the same thing. Both are in blister-packs, hanging on pegs, at craft shops like Michael's.

One package has TWO steel blades / razor saws. They are of two different size blades, but they are ~ 40 teeth / inch. These are good for fiberglass rods. About $10 for the package.

Another package has only ONE much larger, longer & broader blade in it. It also has the same red, detachable handle for holding the knife-razor-saw. It has 52 TEETH per INCH, and gives a finer cut. Blade dimensions are approximately (6 inches long) x (1 inch deep). It is better for the graphite rods, and using one blade for graphite and one for the "softer" fiberglass keeps both blades sharper and their cuts cleaner. Also $10.

Definitely use masking tape on both sides of the cut to prevent splintering, reduce marring from a slip of the blade, and form a groove within which to guide the blade. Cut only in the FORWARD direction.

"X-ACTO" Brand 'EXTRA-FINE RAZOR SAW SET" Model # X239 / X75350 . Contains (1) Heavy-duty plastic knife handle, with (1) Extra-fine razor saw blade. Extra-fine razor saw blade has 52 teeth per inch (tpi) and blade thickness is 0.012 inch (0.30 millimeters). The tooth depth is right about or slightly less than the thickness of the saw blade (0.3 mm). Teeth cut only in one direction (as you draw = pull toward you). Overall blade dimensions: 5.50 inches long ; 1.25 inches deep. The backbone on the saw is 3 / 8ths inch deep (0.375"), thus reducing the effective cutting depth of the saw blade to 7 / 8ths inch (0.875"). [Unit conversion: 1.0000 inch = 25.400 millimeters] Available at MICHAELS craft store for ~ $10. I don't know if any of our RBO Sponsors has them as well. (I could not find them in the M-H or the SMRW Catalogs.) ... I bought mine for rod blank trimming, and simple cork cuts. I don't do checkerboard cork. ...

-Cliff Hall, Gainesville, FL-USA+++

Table of Effects of TRIMMING or EXTENDING a ROD BLANK on its Various Performance Properties

"Table of Effects of TRIMMING or EXTENDING a ROD BLANK"
[www.rodbuilding.org]

Date: Monday, August 15, 2005 10:18am. (Views: 510+ , as of 12-20-05)
If you want a SHORTER version of the rod, with nearly the same action, trim from the BUTT.
If you want a STIFFER version of the same rod blank, trim carefully / successively from the TIP.
If you want a LONGER version of the rod, with a very similar action, EXTEND from the BUTT.
The most dramatic alteration of a rod blank's properties would come from trimming its tip. Trimming or extending the rod blank from the butt end has a less pronounced effect on the rod blank's performance, with respect to the forward-tip’s action-taper.

-Cliff Hall, G’ville, FL+++
*.DOC upon request: cmkmhall@ufl.edu

Bill - when trimming just a couple inches from the tip, tape off the blank on both sides to let the saw ride in the slot and keep the ends from splintering.

ALSO support the rod tip FLAT against a scar-able cutting board.

And ROTATE the rod blank a little bit with successive strokes of the saw. Depending on how tiny the rod tip is, you may want to turn the rod OVER if your cut has sunk too deeply before you cut a shallow groove all the way around.

If you just try to hack straight down, you may splinter the bottom wall. Try saw from the OUTSIDE of the wall in TOWARDS the CENTERLINE of the ROD BLANK.

If the saw is cutting from the INNER WALL (center) toward the OUTER SURFACE, fracturing or splintering of the wall is more likely.

If THAT HAPPENS, you may lose more than the 2 inches you planned on, ... and REALLY alter the rod tip and its action.

What kind of rod blank is this anyway? ... If this rod is under 7 foot, and of a fast action, any more than 1-2 inches you may alter the tip's action more than you planned on. ... In which case a trim from the BUTT can reduce overall length without stiffening the rod tip at all.

You can gauge the effects of tip trimming by flexing the rod tip with a weight hanging from the new cut spot, or using your hand to show what the rod's new loaded arc will look like.

I'm not trying to worry you - just get you to think before you act. Once it's cut off, you can't put it back.

Good Luck, -Cliff Hall+++, Gainesville, FL-USA*****

A small triangular file works also just not as easy. make a file cut grove all the way
around the blank then the end piece will snap off.

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..

Whatever method you use, make sure you ware eye protection. Graphite dust can damage your eyes.
Good Wraps Bob

The tool to use really depends on the blank you're cutting. Small blanks are easily cut with the exacto blade, triangular file, dremel, etc. Larger blanks can be a pain if you don't have the right tools. For these even a dremel can be a pain at times. A cutoff saw like Mr. Jim suggests is a good tool to have (I don't have one). Honestly, (and I'll probably get hung for even suggesting such a thing) I've used one of the very small hacksaws to trim the butt of big saltwater rods with no problems. If you're careful and cut a little around the entire blank, there will be no splintering.

Jay

Jay,

I've used a fine hacksaw blade for the heavier salt water rods and no problems either. I use a dremel to start the cut though.

Ernie

Use making tape and dont be in a hurry and a hacksaw does just
fine on glass or larger graphite blanks.IMHO. There are better tools
to use if you have them.

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..