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Any photo's besides Domenic's of a giude for a tip top?
Posted by: Tim Collins (---.hsd1.mi.comcast.net)
Date: April 06, 2006 12:56PM

I've only found one photo example of a running guide being used as a tip top. Although Domenic's wraps looks good, I'm struggling with the fact that this guide with this amount of thread and epoxy will be lighter overall than a lightweight tip top, a bit of guide adhesive, and 5-6 turns of thread underneath plus a small dab of finish. Is a runnig guide as a tip top really that much
lighter "overall"?

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Also, when I do the Forhan wrap on a single foot guide, I don't start my first set of blocking wraps until I get to the "ramp". This puts my locking wraps up the ramp and then the finish wraps after that. If I wrap my guide the same way for a tip top, then I would need a considerable section of the blank tip extending beyond the guide, correct? Thanks.

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Re: Any photo's besides Domenic's of a giude for a tip top?
Posted by: Ralph D. Jones (---.bhm.bellsouth.net)
Date: April 06, 2006 07:00PM

I have no pictures, but I've built more than a dozen fly rods with a running guide as a tip. I do just like the directions in the LIBRARY article direct. A #6 BLAG Fuji Alconite needs about 1/16in., maybe a bit less for the locking wrap. One rod is over three years old and fished often. None of the tips have failed yet, although I've replaced a different guide on 3(three) of these rods. Ralph

If at first you don't succeed, go fishing, then try, try again.

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Re: Any photo's besides Domenic's of a giude for a tip top?
Posted by: Stan Grace (---.hln-mt.client.bresnan.net)
Date: April 06, 2006 09:39PM

I just weighed an alconite BLAG 6 at 2.7 grains and an alconite tip top BFAT 6 at 4.8 grains. So the tip top is considerably heavier in these random guides that I weighed.

Stan Grace
Helena, MT
"Our best is none too good"

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Re: Any photo's besides Domenic's of a giude for a tip top?
Posted by: Randy Gerrick (---.dsl.clevoh.ameritech.net)
Date: April 06, 2006 11:25PM

Tim,

The guide in plae of the tip top really doesn't make the rod any lighter. It does though place the line further from the rod tip which helps keep it from wrapping around the tip section. The guide also takes away the angle from the last guide to the tip top which will aide in the line coming off the spool a little smoother. I have all of my float rods wrapped in this manner and none of them have had a tip failure where the guide came loose. One rod is seven years old. I had the original guide break and then I relaced it with a sturdier guide and it's still going strong. Just besure you use enough tension on the tread and you shouldn't have any problems.

Randy

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Re: Any photo's besides Domenic's of a giude for a tip top?
Posted by: Tim Collins (---.hsd1.mi.comcast.net)
Date: April 07, 2006 12:54PM

Thanks Stan and Randy, I too have compared the weights of tip top vs guides and have the same results. What I don't have is the difference in the weight of thread and epoxy between a minimal amount for a tip top versus a full wrap and epoxy of a Forhan wrap on the guide foot. If there's a major difference in the total of everything then maybe there's something to it. But if there's minimal difference and I want the line further off the blank then I would look at a tip top such as the Forecast LTCMNT or a Fuji HLST. A running guide on the end seems to take away the beauty of a "custom built rod" in my opinion. I just find it hard to believe that the extra amount of thread and finish for a running guide is still less overall than a standard tip top. I'll have to do a test myself and find out exactly. Thanks.

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Re: Any photo's besides Domenic's of a giude for a tip top?
Posted by: Cliff Hall (---.dialup.ufl.edu)
Date: April 09, 2006 12:02AM

Regarding the weighing of hypothetical guide wraps & configurations: There are several ways to do this. They can include:

An actual construction on a scrap segment of rod blank. Weigh the rod segment as a naked blank first, then as a finished rod. The difference is your Additional Mass per Guide (AMPG).

A guestimation of the amount of material used and a quick weighing. To estimate wrap weights, you could simply peel off a length of thread that would cover your winding. Add a drop of finish or water, and your guide and weigh. The largest variable and most imprecise component is the mass of the thread finish applied.

A third way is to use the Table of Wrap Strengths & Weights ** and calculate the ratio of thread in your scenario compared to the Table's assumptions (Rod Blank OD = 3.18mm, and Wrap Width is 10 mm). The Table does NOT include a thread finish mass. But you can make some reasonable assumptions from Emory Harry's work and his RMM Article on the subject. Basically it is convenient to assume that the mass of the thread finish will equal the mass of the thread itself.

Therefore, for each guide added onto the rod blank:
Additional Mass per Guide = Guide + Thread + Epoxy
Additional Mass per Guide = Guide + 2 x (Thread)
AMPG = Guide + 2(Thread)

For calculating this, based on your Thread Material & Size: :
Your Thread Mass = (Tabulated Value) x Correction Factor (CF)
CF = [(Your Rod Blank OD) / (3.18 mm)] x [(Your Wrap Width) / 10 mm]

Even with my passion for precision, I would still say that a very precise calculation of the new point masses distributed up & down your new fishing rod is not really going to effect the rod design or performance that much. So long as you are already using sound principles for your guide selection & layout in the first place.

You still have to pass a good Loading Layout & Casting Test no matter what your AMPG's may run.

And the effect of total mass on a rod's Resonance Frequency (RF) is inversely proportional to the SQUARE ROOT of the total effective mass. You would have to QUADRUPLE the total mass (ROD + AMPG) in order to HALVE the RF.

Since the RF's even on a quality rod blank are already down in the range of well below 10 Hz, the frequency is so thumping low that the difference between 5.25 Hz and 4.75 Hz (10%) may not be as appreciable as we may think. I don't know what a sensory scientist would tell us. A 10% decrease in RF may require something like a 25+% increase in AMPG, depending on the relative massivenss of the rod blank.

New calculations of the new built rod's Point Mass distribution and Effective Lever Force (ELF) calculation would still not tell us enough information until we were able to correlate RF, with ELF and with "feel".

ELF would tell us that the built rod was "XY.Z" Ounce-Inches of torque
operating against the Angler merely from the sheer weight of the rod blank.

And frankly, even then, the balance of the rod would effect that value, because a heavy butt can balance out a heavier tip in some designs.

So, I'll lay down my pen and calculator and say in closing that the K.I.S.S. (KEEPING IT SIMPLE, Sherlock) it not just convenient - it is an inherently advantageous and even intelligent approach to overall rod design. Yes - Minimize a rod's mass, as much as practical, but don't lose sleep over it.

Fishing with a half-tired brain is not only less fun - the car drive home is that much more dangerous. Get more sleep, and don't fret the AMPG too much, ... IMO, ...-Cliff hall+++, Gainesville, FL-USA*****

** TITLE: "Gudebrod Thread Table: Strength & Weight of Guide Wraps for Size 2/0 - E" For general reference, a Table of Calculated Strengths and Weights of UNFINISHED Gudebrod Thread Wraps for Sizes 2/0-E, for Silk, Regular Nylon, NCP and HT Metallics, assuming a thread wrap bandwidth of 1 cm, around a rod blank of circumference of 1 cm (OD = 1/Pi = 3.18 mm), is available at: [www.rodbuilding.org]
Calculated values, not direct "in-situ" measurements.
-Cliff Hall+++, Gainesville, FL-USA*****



Edited 4 time(s). Last edit at 04/09/2006 01:28AM by Cliff Hall.

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