I am building a cascade SU1209 for fishing eight n bait or the occasional off
the top of a bridge jigging trip. I am going to use Fuji bmnag concept guides and I was thinking of using these size guides 3-12'S 2-16'S 2-20'S 1-25 for the gathering guide. I would like to know if this guide size set up sounds appropriate
for this blank ?

You could probably get away with a size 20 as the stripper. And no need for so many 20's & 16's.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/04/2006 11:23AM by Billy Vivona.

Billy V , I was concerned about line slap on the blank while making a cast
also I was thinking about creating flat spots by not using enough guides.
Do you feel that these issues wouldnt be a problem with a 20 for the gathering guide
and scaling back on a few of the other guides?

Bill,
You entitled your thread "10ft. conventional guide sizes"
A conventional ron uses a revolving spool type reel and "line slap" is not
possible. Are you really talking about a SPINNING rod? BIG DIFFERENCE!


Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..

Ray A , no I am not talking about a spinning rod the thread states conventional !
I have been building rods for over 25 years I am 36 years old if that helps. I just havent
built a 10' conventional before thats why I started this thread. I am looking for experienced
advise regarding guide sizes for the SU 1209 before I purchase the guides. Thanks.

On any rod if I start to get a spacing more then 10 " I get ready to add one. But spinning " gravity " will pull the line down. That is another reason I try to make the line path go into the center of the rings.
I also like the Fuji Concept guides for spinning because of the ring height.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/04/2006 12:27PM by bill boettcher.

I browsed a few of these posts briefly, you can dig through the rest, I'm sure there is the exact info you want buried in one of these posts:

[www.stripersonline.com]

You can eliminate flat spots by using more guides, but they dont have to be so big. the higher the guide hieght is off the blank, the more torque and twist teh rod will have.

I'll add - I do not think your original plan was "wrong". I STRONGLY suggest you place that order, but get a couple more size 12's than you plan. Tape the guides on and test cast your set up, adn test cast teh smaller guided set up - see FOR YOURSELF which one works better FOR YOU. do not rely on someone else's opinion, no matter how experianced they are. Test casting several set ups yourself answers all your questions, and will benefit you down teh line when you go to wrap another 10 footer.

Sorry Bill,
I have never heard the term "line slap" used in discussions involving conventional rods
before. The definition of line slap as I understand it, is the coils coming off a spinning reel
slapping the blank before it enters the butt guide.

Another example of what happens when we "assume"

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..

He also had the word " conventional " along with a spinning rod ?? Thought he was making a spinner.
On spinners some times it is a good idea to put a small piece of tape on the blank to see when casting if the line hits it. Short piece of tape. If it does, the butt guide can be adjusted, and sized.

Ray A , no harm no foul thanks for the reply though.
Thanks to everyone for thier time and reply's.

The first thing you need to do, is determine what the smallest size guide you can use is. If your shock leader knot won't pass through it on the cast without hanging or catching, then you're dead in the water before you start.

Once you have found out the smallest size you can use, you can line the rod with that size right up to your butt guide. Perhaps use one size in-between if it suits you.

On very heavy surf rods with heavy line I often found that I had to use a 25 butt guide followed by a 20 and then all 16's on out to the top.

Now if you know you can use 12's with no problem, I'd go back and determine how large a butt guide you need. If you can keep the line off the foregrip with a size 20, then I'd go 20 - 16 and then all 12's on out to the top.

One last thing, there has never been any more comprehensive work done on surf rods than that found in the Volume 7 #1 issue of RodMaker. Almost any question you would ever have pertaining to surf rods is fully covered in that article.

..............

Tom k , Thanks for the input . I scaled back on the original guides that I picked out
and I am planning to buy a few extra twelves since the blank has a 101/2 tip I am going to trim it to
an 11 tip with a 12 ring. So I am going to start with a 12 ring guide and work my way down to the butt guide.
Thanks for your advise it it valuable to me since I have never built a 10 ' conventional stick. Tightlines.

Bill,
Have you considered using the Bumper Wrap configuration on this rod? When the running guides are on the bottom of the rod it will greatly reduce torque; increase the power applied to a fighting fish and relieve a lot of tension in your wrist. Casting accuracy and distance will not be adversely affected and might even be slightly improved.

Directions for the Bumper Wrap can be found by searching the Forum. It will reqire adding one more of the smallest guides which will pass your knots. I believe the Bumper Wrap is so superior for conventional rods that I will never build another without it.

It's easy to run a test before making a decision. Try it and see for yourself.
Dave

Thanks for beating me to the suggestion Dave G.....You saved me some typing....ALL of my conventional rods are wrapped Bumper Style.



Derek L. McMaster
Rohnert Park, CA

Born to Fish, FORCED to Work