While butt wrapping my painted Grahite Usa blank that when I had to unwrap a short length that I could see the thread impressions in the paint. I dont think I was too tight but lessened the tension just a little and continued to wrap furthur up the butt then unwrapped a quater inch just to see and the impressions were still evident. No harm in that Its an under wrap and not visible. What did concern me much more was that during the handling I did blemish the blank for a length of about 2" x .030" (not a scratch) but I did knock the gloss off. I am really sure that on no occasion do I recall rubbing scrapping or dinking the blank (obviously I did!) When I take this rod to the creek no doubt It will come in contact witbh low lying limbs get propped against stuff ect. normal handling My guess is the paint job will become a mess pretty quick. Ive never used a painted rod before I think. Could it be less than fully cured paint? Ive ask Grahite Usa their opinion. Wondering if anyone has an idea of what Im doing wrong. In general I am quite careful with my equiptment.. Can a hard coat be applied? hate to add any weght as it feels really nice.

Tom,
You didn't say what paint you used.
Try spraying the bank with a clear gloss like Krylon fixitive or a spray urithane.
Protects well and not heavy IMHO.
The owner of one of my painted rods likes to just toss it into the back of her
pick-up and so far it is still holding up ok concidering.

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..

Better yet, use a spray spar urithane. I coat all my painted blanks with it before I build the rod and let it dry thoroughly ( at least 2 days ) before I start building on them. No problems so far.

Bill in WV

I thnk Tom is referring to a factory finished blank, not one that he painted himself.....

I have seen these impressions when you back the thread off for whatever reason. I once removed an underwrap because of the owner of the rod change his mind, could see distinct impressions from the thread on the blank's finish. Left the blank in the lathe overnight and the next morning the thread impressions had leveled out and were not longer visible.

I have seen other blanks whose finish is not affected in this manner...

I think what we're seeing is the typical characteristics of this particular type of paint. I am not certain if this paint will harden with further aging.

Lou

If this is a factory painted blank -- try to get another
If you painted it, it should be hard in a day or two. If not don't use that paint again. Get a auto laquer spray.
You could try to coat with Permagloss. Check a spot to see if it will lift the paint.

Lou,

This impression of the thread is also common on clear factory finishes., if left on for a while and then removed. It is no big deal at all. This problem is worse not so much for the thread indents but the fact the paint seems too soft for normal handling. Factory finish back to maker. Your own finish down to you and a seriuos re-think of the product and your process. Personal thing but I hate painted blanks and won't paint them myself. Enough probs as it is building .LOL

The main reason I don't like pinted blanks is that re- furbs are very much harder to do and to do well. Clear finish are much easier.
My £0.02 worth.

Back to Talon I thinks

To clerify it is a factory painted blank. I spoke with Graphite USA and they had already sent a new blank. So if ever there was a company who wanted to service their customer they sure did. Thanks Graphite USA, Hastings corp.
They felt it was not a properly cured blank and spoke of having one of the hardest paints in the industry and really wanted me to see the difference. So needless to say I'm really pleased with their attention to my concern. Again thanks for all the feed back. I will try the Spar Urithane on the current blank. Thanks again Graphite USA.

Thanks for the update Tom!
Have not delt with GUSA yet. Maybe it's time I did!

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..

Used the spar. Not to hard.After several weeks I could still make a finger nail mark in it.

Bill,

I have never found either yacht varnish or std polyurethanes very good on carbon blanks. This type of substrate does not seem to suit them. I find it does not adhere very well. It scratches dead easily. Flakes off inside of a couple of years especially in salt water and the finish you get is not that great either. A very simple test is to varnish the blank, leave for a week. Then put some masking tape onto the blank and rip off. Very often the varnish will come with it. Good stuff eh?

Mike
Have not tried the Man-O -War marine spar yet.. Have you ?? Any good ?
Seems to be either Permagloss or auto clear for hardness flexibility and adhesion.
I have read that some use tru-oil ? But have not tried it either ?