This may be obvious to some but not me... On a Forhan locking wrap once you do the normal part of the wrap do you then have to cut the thread leading from the spool in order to begin the locking part of the wrap?

Thanks,
David

No. Insert your pull through loop make one turn that does not go over the guide foot but behind it and then three locking wraps and then at least one more regular wrap and pull the tag end through as usual.

David,

Jims 'right. You can see how to fully do this useful wrap in the library above. It has been very well described and it is very easy to follow. I like to have at least eight turns total over my tag end to make sure I dion't loose tension. I put my pull through in one wrap before I go around the back of the guide before doing the locking turns. If you do too many it can be a devils job pulling through and you may fray or break off the thread. Follow the method above though and I bet you can do it first time around. You can still adjust the guide a tad if you have to as well so don't get worried about that.

Mike O.

As you start the locking wrap section of the Forhan wrap, guide the thread under tension around the post and blank with your hand about three times, then regain the tension by rewinding from the spool. You shouldn't cut anything until you're completely done with the wrap.

Jim

JIm,

I don't follow you. Could you enlarge here please. I am not fighting you here just trying to learn more as we all make this journey. Now I am wrapping freehand directly off the spool,of thread. When I have put on the turn that goes behind the guide I still have tension on the thread. It is never off it all the way through the complete wrap. I then make the first turn around the ring post and around the blank. This is repeated two more times before I put in the extra blocking wraps. In my case depending on blank diameter and which guide I am wrapping will determine how many blocking wraps. Typically it is at least four . I appreciate that some will do less but I like a few more.

Regards

Mike O.

Jim,

Sorry. I am a bit mentally challenged. I just realised what you meant. If you are working with a thread tension device, you got to pull some thread off to make the wrap around the guide post and then you are going to be left with some slack thread you have to re-wind onto your thread bobbin. Dooooh

Regards

Mike Oliver

Thanks guys, I think I have a handle on it now. Also part of the problem I was having understanding the wrap was that in the library article his thread is coming from above and behind. My thread comes from below and front. Now that I can picture it in my mind I think I can do it.

I really appreciate the replys and the fact that everyone here is so willing to help others.

David

I generally don't 'pull off' any thread from the spool when making the locking wraps. Simply 'push' the thread around the ring & post under tension. There should be no loose thread to re-spool onto your bobbin in my opinion.

Jay

Jay's got it. If you use fingers to get the locking wraps over the guide you can get a little less tension. I've been using one of those little hookie things for darning socks, grabs the thread and pulls it over the guide. It can be done without losing any tension.

Jay and Grant ,
That's the beatuy of this craft. there can be lots of ways to do it and what works for each of us is great. It's nice to learn about each others techniques. Valuable when you come across one which knocks spots off your own.

Regards

mike.

The first few times through, you may have a little less tension than you want. After that, though, you'll figure out how to keep constant tension while you're doing the Forhan Wrap. It involves switching from "tension from tension" device to "tension from fingers," back to "tension from tension device". There's no way to really describe it in words. But, you'll figure it out pretty quickly.

Andrew,

That's one of the reasons I wrap freehand holding 1 oz spools in my palm. I just can't figure much these days