My blank is rootbeer. My thread is CP very close to the same color as the blank,slightly lighter. I would like the thread wrap tp be visible but not translucent. I did a test wrap on a scrap blank using CP and the color lightened a little more than I want. When I did the first test wrap i liked the color (little change if any but it was translucent no CP.
How can I maintain the color and not get translucent and still see the strands?

Tom, I'm not sure that I understand what you're saying. The thread should not lighten with CP, it should return pretty close to the spool color after the CP dries. What CP are you using and how are you applying it? CP encapsulates the thread and the finish doesn't penetrate it so the finish should have little or no effect on it. I'm not sure but I don't think that CP or finish can lighten thread color


Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Tom,

You said that your thread is already CP thread, if so why are you recoating with CP?. If you want to see what it's going to look like after finish is applied wrap your thread on a test blank (Piece) then coat the thread with olive oil, Vet oil and some guys says spit work also. That will give you as close to an expoy look that I know of without appling epxoy.

Maybe I misunderstood. Do you mean you have regular thread (w/o CP) or do you have thread that already has the CP applied?

Hank
On The Rocks Fishing
Wells, ME.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/25/2006 04:45PM by Milton (Hank) Aldridge.

What is CP thread?? Never heard of it. Are you referring to NCP thread which is opaque and does not require the use of CP??

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Regular nylon thread with CP should look a lot better then NCP thread. With CP on the regular thread it should keep it's color Are you letting the CP dry long enough ? There are usually several colors of the same hue, or shades. perhaps another shade ? In the browns I beleve there are 4-5 diferent shades..

If you used a milky-white CP (i.e. Flex Coat) on regular nylon thread, that will, to my eye, very slightly lighten the thread color. If thats what you are referring to, go with Gudebrod 811 CP. Its clear, so your thread color stays the same. I thin it 50:50 with isopropyl alcohol and put 2 coats on. I've never used NCP (no color preserver, as in, doesn't require CP) thread.

The thread Im using is Gudebrod Nylon 5274. I would call it copper in color. It is not NCP which is why I called it CP thread. In my first test wrap I was using a blank that was not similiar in color to the Rootbeer tone of the blank I will build.The test blank is a silvery blue. (its all I had) lighter than the 5274 thread.
The first test wrap using guide I used no Cp. The wrap took on a "see thru" appearance meaning the guide foot was visible (I dont want that) , but it didnt change color (thats good).
In an attempt to lessen the "see thru" appearance I did a second test wrap and used CP. The CP is milky looking. I bought 2 types. Both look the same. U-40 Color Lock 2 and FlexCoat Color Preserver and Sealer. The results was a no "see thru" condition (thats good) with some thread texture remaining (also good) the color had taken on a slight lightening (less good). I will order some 811.
That should put this too bed.
I also did a test wrap as I mentioned using a similiar color thread by PacBay that is a NCP (Pbay calls it "Stay-True Genuine") I split the wrap separating the wrap into two bands and applied the milky looking U-40 CP to one band and the results was a very distinct lightening in color (1 full shade) of the Cp band, both bands losing the thread texture, both looking like a plastic band. I think the "plastisizing" is typical of NCP thread when finished regardless of using or not using CP.
This is only the second rod Ive made and with all the help from everything I can read and all the feedback from this Phorum if I can learn as much with every rod I'll be as informed as you guys (in about 100 more rods. ) Thanks
Tom

I don't think that it's the CP. I would imagine that it's the light blank underneath it. Try a small test on the butt of the root beer blank where it won't show (or cut it off when done)

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

it appears that the blank color has the biggest impact. Ive ordered some 811 and will see how that works but it looks like the dark thread (chessnut) and the dark blank (rootbeer) really reduce the foot visibility using no CP and litle if any color change with the u-40 milky CP thanks for all the feed back. I did a search and this one goes a long a back with lots of info. Someone said try it on see what happens and thats really good advice (on a test blank).

If you don't have the handle on yet do your test there With and without CP

You can also paint the guide feet after prep-work to match the thread color
and they wont stick out like sore thumbs under translucent wraps.

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..