I have a weird question here but I'm wondering if you guys know about a source for custom dipping blanks. I have quite a few blanks that I would like to put a different color on but I don't know of anyone who does it. I'm looking for someone who will operate much like an anodizer does for machined aluminum parts. Any suggestions or leads?? Thanks
Andrew

You can't anodize a rod blank. If you'll do a search here on check the online library, you'll see how to change your blank's color with the least amount of muss and fuss.

.............

I would prepthe blank and have a auto shop paint it with a paintthat is used for fiber glass cars
Good Wraps Bob

Bob,unless you have a friend in the business this will most likely cost a bundle.Paint shops can mix small amounts for small jobs but the computer figures the cost for them and they charge acordingly.If you get lucky they may be squirting a car the color you want and get a better deal.Also most paints have to be baked at 150 degrees.The cost to run the booth for a blank would be crazy unless they piggyback it with a car in the booth.

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

Hi Andrew,

You might check with Ken Preston kpres375@aol.com
I think Ken does alot of blank painting. If not he my know someone.

Hank
On The Rocks Fishing
Wells, ME.

All,
Tom asked me to write an article for RodMaker on this subject. I'm working on the article. I plan to 'splain a couple of different approaches to changing the color of a rod blank and go from translucent/transparent to opaque. Right now I'm waiting for a shipment of metallic silver (hard chrome) paint from Merrick tackle to try out (as well as some color change paints that they also sell -- three step process: base coat, tint/paint, top coat). I'll also do a short piece on an airgun and using a variety of pigments mixed in epoxy, permaglos, diamondite and another two part urethane product. I'm hoping to also provide a "source list" where these things can be found locally --- or through one of the sponsors.

Can't wait, Ken! Sounds great.



Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Fred
That is what I did. I have a friend who has a custom auto paint shop. He charged me 25 bucks a rod., He does fantastic fade out work from one color to another. He would paint my rods in one both an then take them into a both where he was bakeing a car. I have to have the rods all preped and ready to paint.
Good Wraps Bob

Guys,
Thank you very much for all the information!! Ken, I eagerly await your painting articles! I'm looking forward to seeinghow painting a blank is done. I am wondering though about the automotive paint because it seems it would crack with the constant bending of the rod as well as add weight and increase the diameter of the rod blank. Are these real issues or am I worrying out of my own ignorance?? Thanks for the help!!
Andrew

Andrew,

There is an additive that painters can add to the paint to promote flexibility. They do it to paint plastic bumper pieces.

Bill in WV

Newer automotive paints are made to be more flexible - those are the ones that are used on plastic bumpers etc and are plastic paints. Anything you do to a blank to change the color (with the exception of turning a shiny blank to a matte finish) will add weight. The weight is distributed proportionally along the surface length and diameter of the blank (more finish at the butt than at the tip) so change to the overall "Action" of the rod is negligable. I've been playing around with this for about 8 years. Some things work and others don't . Mostly it has to do with the material that you use as a "carrier" and what you use as a colorant or tint. When I started this I was using a two part urethane finish that was very, very viscous that also carried Testor's pigment well in an even disitribuition of opaque color - but was quite flammable (as I found out through a mistake). I haven't found another two part 50/50 mix like that since the distributor went out of business. This then meant I had to "move forward" and experiment with different two part epoxy mixes and different additives. Generally speaking the thinner, more viscous the finish the smoother, thinner the overcoat of colorant - especially when using liquid tints. However, I found that I could not get a true opaque finish rather more a blush, tint or transparent/translucent look - and that was affected by different undercoats or blank preparations. From the use of liquid tints I moved to flake additives (automotive colorants). Those expand the horizon in the over all appearance, finish and 'things to try out". Last year before the show in Charlotte (2005) it was suggested that spray on automotive paints (from auto parts suppliers) might also work. They do - but some have a tendency to crack or chip. Airbrushing also works very well with suspended flakes and may provide the thinnest, most even distribution of color - depending upon your experience with the tool - and an overcoat of Permaglos after the sprayed finish is lightly abraded provides a significant level of protection. I can see that I'm sort of rambling around rather than giving you a "one method answer". The reason for that is that several methods work and you need to evaluate each one depending upon your experience with the medium (spray paint, airbrushing, mixing thin epoxies - finishes and glues (Diamondite) comfort level with flake vs liquid colorants and the cost / availability of each in your area). As earlier I'm trying to write a comprehensive article --- if only I didn't have to go to my 'real job' as well as finish up all the rods that are stacked up for customers in the workshop.

Andrew is CORRECT !! I forgot to mention to have a flex additive added to your paint. Witout the additive your paint will crack, flake and chip off the blank.I do not believe Bomb can paint has a flex additive in them. Once you have a custom shop paint a rod you will never consider doing it your self again. NO mess, No dust, No Clean up. If done right the rod will come out shiny and as smooth as a new born babbies back side
Good Wraps Bob

Ken is correct in his statement. The prep work done to a rod is vary important. Lousy prep work lousy paint job no matter what your paint cost. That is why I recommend a custom paint shop. There are to many variables to consider if you are a newbie painter. Even spay gun air pressure a make a differance.
Good Wraps Bob