SPONSORS
2024 ICRBE EXPO |
replacing rear grip
Posted by:
terry truong
(---.dsl.okcyok.sbcglobal.net)
Date: March 21, 2006 06:31PM
Is it possible to install a hypalon rear grip from the butt of the rod?
I have a rod that has a slickbutt grip that I want to remove. Unfortunately, the OD of the butt end of the rod is 1 1/8 in. Terry Re: replacing rear grip
Posted by:
John Dow
(---.245.167.91.Dial1.Stamford1.Level3.net)
Date: March 21, 2006 07:32PM
It can be done , but it's not going to be easy . You'll have to find a grip with a rather large ID and have an arbor (tapered) to get it started from the back , using a lot of Rod Bond as lube / adheasive . Depending on what you find , or ream to size you may even have to "shim" the blank to get a snug fit up by the seat . If the section of blank the grip is destin for is heavily tapered from the 1.125 dia. your going over , it will be sloppy when it gets up to the seat . How long this grip is going to be will factor into the degree of difficulty for success . I would try to find a piece of blank roughly the same size ( slightly smaller ) and glue it into the butt (taper away from the butt of said rod getting the grip). Perform the install and cut it flush (the pilot blank) . If you try to just install without glueing the "pilot blank" into the rod recieving the grip , I don't think you'll get enough force without "messing up" to get the job done . I've done similar jobs on small stuff , but never anythig that big .
Good luck , may be someone else will have another way to do it . Have fun , John No. E. Rod Builders Got Fish ? Re: replacing rear grip
Posted by:
terry truong
(---.dsl.okcyok.sbcglobal.net)
Date: March 21, 2006 07:44PM
Thanks John.
I think that the section up by the reel seat is not very much smaller than the butt. I suppose I could shim it somehow as well. I wonder if heating the hypalon would help or using a different type of foam? Terry Re: replacing rear grip
Posted by:
John Dow
(---.245.167.91.Dial1.Stamford1.Level3.net)
Date: March 21, 2006 08:05PM
I have read of guys heating the stuff in hot , not boiling , water to "loosen " it up . Not sure if is Hypalon or EVA that was mentioned . I know one is much harder or firmer than the other , I'm guessing that EVA is much eaiser to work with . I'm putting some EVA on a blank right now , and it streches quite a bit , but it is only a 4" piece with a .750 ID going on a .860 dia blank .You will have to do your "move" in one shot more than likely . If you stop it may lock up on you if you don't have enough Rod Bond to help it slide.
You will get some more input , I'm sure . Have fun , John Got Fish ? Re: replacing rear grip
Posted by:
Lou Reyna
(---.pinn.net)
Date: March 22, 2006 09:54AM
Heat will help soften the hypalon.
I went to a pool and billiards supply vendor and bought 20 defective pool cues for $20. Cut these down to various lengths as needed and have used these solid pieced of pool cues to slide grips on from the rear. Put the piece of pool cue on the lathe and bevel the thick end slightly so it fits the i.d. of the blank you're going to re-grip. This stablizies the pool cue against the butt end of the blank. Warm the grip, and slide it onto the pool cue using plenty of epoxy as a lube. push the grip onto the cue as close to the thick end as possible, then place the pool cue piece with grip already on it against the butt of the blank and slide the grip onto the blank. I use a wooded bench with a hole in it as a push board, but I push the blank against the pool cue forcing the cue through the hold, which causes the grip to slide onto the blank. Lou Re: replacing rear grip
Posted by:
terry truong
(204.107.242.---)
Date: March 22, 2006 10:18AM
Lou,
Thanks for the great advice. This sounds like something that I can actually manage. Terry Re: replacing rear grip
Posted by:
Bruce Young
(---.proxy.aol.com)
Date: March 22, 2006 06:28PM
You may want to place one finger over the hole in the rear grip and pour some Lacquer thinner in the hole. Then place your other finger over the other end and rock back and forth to coat the inside of the grip. Then pour out the thinner and place on the prepared blank. This will help the grip soften and facilitate the ease of sliding the grip on the blank. It makes a huge difference in the ability to slide easy. I have been using this method since the early 70's and have not one failure. The thinner will evaporate leaving the glue to do it's job. I prefer Rod Bond for the glue.
If this method doesn't work out for you I have replaced a few grips by making a verticl slice in the grip. I then apply with glue and clean up the lines. Wrap with electrical tape streatching it very tight as you half wrap the tape over the entire length of the grip and compressing it.. Let dry and you can lightly sand the grip if needed. In most cases no sanding will be required. Good luck Bruce young Landing Gear Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
|