I want to build a center pin float rod for steelhead. I have no idea of any of the components. How long is the average rear and front corks? what type of reel seat, fly rod reel seat or spinning? What size and model of guides would someone recomend? And how about the first guide should it be a size 20 or is that to big or small.

I have never seen one of these rods so any reccomendations would greatly be appreciated.

Thanks
Doug Schow

Most float rods are built on anywhere from 11` to 15` on avg. I like the 13` rods for med. size rivers.There are quite a few manufactures that make quility blanks.Rainshadow is my favorite because of price and quality, it might not be the lightest of blanks but is very durable.I would recomend the lightest guides possible, titanium single foot or rec wire guides.If you fish in cold weather you will want to use high frame spinning guides and work your way down to no smaller than a eight, this will help prevent your guides from freezing up and use static guide placement down the blank.There are instructions for this on this sight if you type in a search.Another option is to wrap a guide on the end of the blank instesd of a tip top, this will make sure that your line will run through the guides and out to your rig with not having to worry about your line sticking to your blank when lining out on a drift.Handles can vary depending on the way you cast your rig, some fisherman keep their hand in front of the reel when casting and useing the pinky finger to control the spool.And some keep the hand behind the spool and thumbing the reel.I use both methods so my rods have at least min 10`` rear and front grips.Also float reels are made in many styles and sizes ,I would recomend building the rod to the reel.As the reel seats vary in size.You want to make sure the reel seat fits the reel you are useing, or you can just use sliding rings to eliminate that problem all together.Hope this info helps.Feel free to email me if you want more instuctions.
Bill Britt

Doug-

Feel free to email me on this topic. Defjam@core.com

Bill and I are in the same area. We can get a "round robin" email discussion brewing on this topic.

My suggestion: Hands down w/o question:

RainShadow IST1562F in grey matte or green 2PC 13' Steelhead blank.
REC Single Foot Recoil Spinning guides
BC style Grip. Larger foregrip/shorter butt grip


Domenic Federico
Infinity Rod Creations

I too like the RainShadow IST1562F in grey matte or green 2PC 13' Steelhead blank. But i do not like the rear grip to be less that 10" and a 6 inch foregrip. Take the blank in your hand as if you were fishing. Where your pinky is should be the front of the rim of your reel when the butt is even with your elbow.

Rolly Beenen
Rovic Custom Rods

I partially agree with Rolly. The last rod I built for a fellow GL region steelheader had a 13.5" foregrip and a 9.5 butt grip including the fighting butt. The rod before that had a 5.5" foregrip and a 12.5 buttgrip including the fighting butt. Preference is a huge factor based on forearm length and fish fighting grip style.

My summer smaller/catfish float rod is built on a cascade composite 11'6" 2PC 4-8# noodle rod purchased from the old mudhole clearance stock. I when with a split butt grip with decorative wrap and a 7" reverse full wells foregrip.

I can honestly say that I prefer the first rod's (mentioned above) layout the most. The only changes I would make would be a smaller foregrip than 13.5", but without a doubt, I suggest recoil guides on all my float rods now. The difference in weight is very noticeable. And, as Bill Britt suggested, I prefer the guide used as a tip top method as well.

Domenic

Honestly all of the points are good ones. I prefer my rear grips on the longer side in the lines of the float rods commonly seen in the UK and in Europe. On my last rod I used a Rainshadow, all cork grip (no rings) and Recoil guides. i also kept the finish to a minimum (perma gloss, 3-4 coats) and I can tell you there is a significant differece in the way the rod tip performs compaired to a rod using conventional guides with high build finish.

When I was building the handle I took the but of the blank and set against my elbow. From there I mentally marked the blank with the approximate place where the reel will be placed on the rod. I then added a few inches for a "foregrip" and then glued the rings and turned. This is one of the easiest ways to find a place ont he rod that feels good tot he user.

Good luck

Randy