I know this must be a stupid question, but why not? I know they'll secure the tip. But, are they not as heat resistant or something? I don't find the epoxy stick tip adhesive very easy to use with small fly rod tips. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Todd

Try Rod Bond, very sturdy stuff. I've been fastening 4.5 tips with it and they have been holding up to some serious people doing some serious fishing with them. Haven't had one come loose yet.

Curtis

i would stick with rod bond or 5 min.epoxy.i particulary dont like gorilla glue on plastics or graphite mhoi havent had it bond too good.thanks joe

I use the glue sticks that are made specifically for rod tips. I didn't like it until someone on this board (I'm sorry that I don't remember who it was because I would like to give them credit fir it) posted instructions on the proper way to appy it. Prior to that I wasn't having much success. The trick is to shave small slivers of glue off of the stick. Then using a needle, bodkin or similar device, pack the glue shavings into the tube of the tip top until it is completely full. Heat it and them place it on the rod blank. You will be much happier with the results and it will make it a lot easier down the road if you ever find that you need to reposition the top or make a repair.

I think the super glues are brittle and the gorilla stuff is very messy and only sets up with moisture present. Just use hot melt or 5 minute epoxy.

Gorill glue also expands 3 times as it cures leaving a continuous mess the keep cleaned up till it sets.

Neither! I use Rod Bond for all my building needs EXCEPT for tip tops. IMO, tips need to be able to be removed for repair/replaced fairly easy but still be durable. By using 5 min epoxy or hot glue, they can be removed fairly easy with the use of a little heat. A tip that has been Rod Bonded, will probaly have to be cut off.

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Good advice. Thanks.
What is the best way to heat up a tip without having the plating or tip itself discolor from the flame?

Hi there....Unless you are very good, and there is a slight gap in the tip, using superglue is instantaneous. Meaning, if you are the slightest bit off, the tip's gonna be crooked. whap. it's set, and you're unhappy.
Thermoplastic cement (hot melt) is always a good bet....if it's off some, a bit of heat, and it's true again. It's fast also. 1 minute, and yer outa there. Rodbond is perhaps the best, but it's overnight, and if it's a quickie fix, it's not happening.
There's some hype out there at supply houses, about using a special fishing rod "formula"....for 2.99 plus tax a stick. Or whatever.
Skid on down to your favourite lumber yard, and buy one stick of the brown coloured hot melt, for two bits. The brown ones are the most tenacious. After that, comes the milky white ones. Like the plague, avoid the water clear ones.... they melt the lowest, and are not the best. Bostik is the preferred brand.
They are the makers of the big glue gun, staples, staplers, etc.
I made a cylinder/piston arrangement, that bolts into a machinist vise, is heated with a bernzomatic torch, that, for every 4" stick of storebought resin, makes me about 20 feet of 1/16" extruded resin, for insertion direct into the tip tops. I break off an inch, stick it in the top, light 'er up, and Bob's my uncle.
If the tip is smaller than 1/6, it stretches, and fits. if the tip is bigger, I put 2-3 strands in.
RE: sootless flame: I **carefully* use a little butane turbo pencil torch.... about 2 bucks at @#$%&. I heat the tip, melt the resin, and it's on there.
Works for me..... your mileage may vary.

5-minute epoxy. You have plenty of time to adjust & re-adjust the tip until it's 'perfect'. Yet 15-30 minutes later you can tug & pull on it all you want. No heat needed for installation...I'd the the one dummy to heat something up too much and have it discolor, or even worse, damage the blank. Rod Bond for everything else.

Jay

Todd,

I'm a little late to the party, but just to my $0.02 - most CA (super) glues have very poor water resistance on top of the fast set speed. As Spencer pointed out, Gorilla glue and the other polyurethanes expand quite a bit, and would at least move if not completelt remove the tip-top. I've never had a problem with a 5 minute epoxy tip top, and they do remove easily (although I often remove the top 3-4 inches of the rod at the same time that I remove the tip-top, but enough about my casting).

Wayne Chubb
Fair Oaks, CA

I just placed 2 4.5 tips on a fly rods using FC tip top adhesive. I had a little discolor in both tips. But I lightly polished them with dremel 421 polishing compound. They are as good as new now. I guess I'll follow the good tip mentioned up above. By shaving some glue off and sticking it inside tip. Next time I wil not over heat tip. It was my first time using tip top adhesive.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/20/2006 06:27PM by Art Jessup.

Lightly sand or scrap any finish off the tip of the blank ( carefully ). mark the blank for alignment. Clean the tube of the top with a drill bit. Mix " 5 min " Put some inside the tube 4-5 drops with a pin or needle. A little on the blank Turn the top as it goes on .