Ok

I have read the many posts reguarding this topic using the search feature and I think I may have made 2 errors. I will post my question and read your responses to see if my 2 mistakes are the correct diagnosis.

I have a hazy, smoky finish on my butt wrap and tiny bubbles can be seen all over. The odd thing is that I mixed the finish and applied to both the wrap and the decal/ hook keeper and only the wrap has a bad finish. I first cleaned the blank to a water break free condition, made my butt wrap, liberaly applied FC CP to both the butt wrap and decal, let dry at least an hour and then re-coated with CP. Now when I applied the CP I put a thick coat (Mistake #1?) on both times but remember removing most of the excess. I then let it dry overnight, mixed more FC lite than I would need using a plastic spatula (mistake #2?) and applied with a quality 1/4in brush. Rotated the rod every 5 min or so (for a total of 2 hours) and wicked off the excess before it gelled too much. Burst any remaining bubbles with a lighter held to the side of the rod (not too close). When I walked away it looked like glass. Next day observed my wrap and all looked good except I noticed a slight oily feel to the wrap. I then applied 2 more coats of FC lite and after the 3rd coat all @#$%& broke loose. This is where I got the bubbles. So any suggestions on what I did wrong?

My finishing area is my garage and the temp's were in the upper 40's lower 50's when I applied both the CP and FC. Humidity was around 60%. I am pretty sure (90%) that I mixed the FC thourghly as the area around the decal looks allright. This is my first rod and WAS very pleased with it untill now. I have at least 6 hours in the wrap and I am a bit of a perfectionist, so if I can resolve my hazing finish problem how may I best remove the 3 coats of FC and start over?

Thanks for sharing any suggestions with me!

John

Once in a great while, a condition will occur where CO2 and moisture will combine in perfect harmony to create a hazy/oily surface on your finish. Neither the CO2 nor the moisture (humidity) will cause this on their own nor will they always do so even when large concentrations of both are present. But there is a certain combination of these two that can cause this. It's rare, but it does happen. Normally, several days of warm temperatures combined with wiping of the surface will rid the finish of most of that hazy/oily look.

If you overheat finish, you can boil it, which creates thousands of micro-bubbles. This could be one or your problems as well. Just keep it in mind for the future.

I would tell you not to attempt to apply finish when the temperature is below 65F. Take the rod and the finish to a warmer area and apply there. Very cool temps are not condusive to easy application nor a timely cure.

You have a couple options. You can sand down what you have now, careful not to get into the thread and attempt to recoat. Or, you can cut and strip everything off (yes, the wraps as well) and start over.

...........

John , I had the same problem 2 or3 times myself a few years ago . It would happen to me in the very extreme humid wheather . I don't know if there were exessive amounts of CO2 , but I use a de-humidifier now and have eliminated the haze . I also work in a basement where it gets cold this time of year and now use a butane tourch to warm the finish if needed . The little tourch dosen't give the blank "soot" that a Bic lighter does , ant it's a lot easier to direct the heat wit an adjusable "blue flame" . The tourches can de found in a Sears hardware or one of the home stores in the tool section . Use tripple filtered putane . Have fun , there will be many more learning curves , but it's all good when the rod's finaly done . John , NERBS

Got Fish ?

I am in agreement with both Tom and John. First cut the mess off and start over. When it comes to heat, I use a blue flame. For the measuring the correct distance from the blank, I use my hand. I place my hand in front of the flame, when I can feel the heat without burning my hand that is the distance I keep the flame from the rod. ALWAYS! Keep the flame moving never stop or you will melt the rod. Also when you use heat you will see a bubble on the underside of the blank wick that bubble off. We all have had your experience with finishes
Good Wraps Bob

Thanks all for the suggestions. I am a little dissapointed in myself since I praticed many times not only with the thread wrapping but mixing and applying the finish on an old rod scrap. Just goes to show that pratice doesn't allways make perfect!

John Bunner

here is what i have learned.. the lighter is not clean leaving suit..i stopped having haze problems when i started using somthing other than a lighter to burn fuzzies and bust bubbles.

Thanks for the advice Kenny. I don't think the lighter was the problem cause I held the lighter to the side of the rod so no soot would be deposited on the finish. I tend to think either Tom's suggestion about the CO2 and humidity was the problem or more likely I just got the finish too hot and caused the microscopit bubbles to form. I'm gonna try wet sanding with 400 grit but in the end I think I'll have to strip everything off and start over :(

John

You can also use a alcohol lamp. Care must be used with any type of heat. I do not recommend a hair dryer. Hair dryers can throw dust
Good Wraps Bob

You can also use a alcohol lamp. Care must be used with any type of heat. I do not recommend a hair dryer. Hair dryers can throw dust
Good Wraps Bob

One question from here: Is there a chance you worked with black thread?

Bill What is the question about Black thread? At one time or another all rod builders use black thread. Is this in reference to hazing? Also the hazing maybe caused by trapped micro air bubbles in the thread, this is caused when the thread is not packed tight and burnished. This usually happens with thread, that is not coated with C/P or is not an NPC. Just my 2 cents this is not in stone.
Good Wraps Bob

Bill What is the question about Black thread? At one time or another all rod builders use black thread. Is this in reference to hazing? Also the hazing maybe caused by trapped micro air bubbles in the thread, this is caused when the thread is not packed tight and burnished. This usually happens with thread, that is not coated with C/P or is not an NPC. Just my 2 cents this is not in stone.
Good Wraps Bob

People will use Flexcoat CP over the top of black nylon thread and then describe the "haze" as micro bubbles when in fact it is the "white solids" in the CP causing the problem. It looks like the milky way at night in the finish.

Ok, so I decided to remove the butt wrap since the haziness was too much for my taste. Well, I was at Michaels craft store today picking up some supplies and noticed this gold/silver/red metal leaf and had an idea! So I bought it, got home, stripped the nasty finish and my butt wrap off and experimented with the gold leaf. all I can say is WOW!!!! I think the hazy finish was Divine Intervention! :) Anyway, gonna use the leaf as an underlay for my new wrap. I then came here and looked through the photo section and found a Rod by Erik Kunz that shows exactly what I'm doing minus the wrap. So in the end I'm glad I had problems with my finish! Take a look at what Erik did!

[www.rodbuilding.org]

here's my newly designed butt section

[www.rodbuilding.org]


John



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/20/2006 02:02AM by John Bunner.