It seems I mixted 2 parts resin 1 part hardner of U40 high build for a butt wrap.
Its been 16 hours now.
This was my first wrap I could be proud of and sure would like to save it. Please someone WHAT TO DO?

Thanks...

It will not set up. You're going to have to wipe off as much as you can. Put on a latex or nitrile glove and wipe the finish off. Get off as much as you can. Most of it should come off but the threads will be left a bit wet. Then, measure and mix properly and apply another coat. That should take care of your problem.

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As Tom said use the latex or nitrile gloves.Keep any rag or paper towel away from the rod.I wouldnt even usa a rag to wipe the gloves due to lint .

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

If you used Color Preserver (CP) on the Threads before applying that 2-part epoxy Thread Finish, then you will probably get lucky and be able to salvage things. ... Wipe off as much as you can of the gelatinous, un-reacted epoxy. Maybe gently scrap out the corners with a spatula or use the corners of an index card. Sweeping off the remainder of the goop with clean paint or epoxy brushes may help. Brush with the thread-grain, so you sweep out the valleys (even if you used A-size Thread.)

But, ... if the epoxy was applied directly to the threads, then the epoxy that soaked in may keep the thread looking wet, and prevent good adhesion of any over-coats. No matter what you do or try, or how long you wait. In that case, it would not ever look any better than it does now, because the un-reacted epoxy is not able to evaporate. It will thicken more like a sticky oil, than dry like a paint. ... In that case the quickest way to recover is to slice & re-do, ... Ouch!!, ...

As a chemist, the idea of using solvents to try and wash out the epoxy from the threads comes to mind, but it would really take at least 10+ acetone rinses and paper towel wickings to really get it done right. If it worked, … Quite a mess, and enough acetone to give quite a headache. ... If yours is not a hard gloss finish rod blank, any acetone may mar its surface. … There is no way to get the un-reacted epoxy to polymerize and harden. It would just take things from bad to worse. ... IMO, Cliff Hall+++



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/07/2006 04:27AM by Cliff Hall.

its not that bad as to give up
do as tom says (dont use those gloves with silicone or chalk in them ) then redo it with the correct ratio`s

Cliff is wrong. The un-reacted epoxy will polymrize and harden. You have to get rid of as much of the bad stuff as you can possibly wipe off MECHANLICALLY--DO NOT USE ANY SOLVENT. Then when the area is ready --- re-apply a properly mixed coat of epoxy, be sure and cover ALL of the first coat of bad stuff. Let it cure and the properly mixed coat will mingle with and polymerize the undercoat of improperly mixed stuff. In other words, do exactly as Tom Kirkman recommended you do in the above post.. When your second properly mixed coat has hardened, you can rest assured that the first coat is also hardened.
Ralph

ROQ wrote: "Cliff is wrong. The un-reacted epoxy will polymerize and harden. You have to get rid of as much of the bad stuff as you can possibly wipe off MECHANICALLY -- DO NOT USE ANY SOLVENT. ..."

Thanks, Ralph - Better for me to be wrong than for Greg Tucker to be S.O.L. - "Simply Outta Luck" ...

By the way, I was NOT recommending the use of solvents (acetone) to wash out the threads IF some CP had already been applied to the Thread prior to the bad batch of Epoxy thread finish. ...

Sorry about any misleading or discouraging speculation. ... Non-stoichiometric (out of proportion) mixing is not an error I have ever had to correct personally. ...

How this good batch can mingle in with the old remnant and redeem it strikes me as a mystery. ... But thank you, Fellows, for your over-riding voice of experience and the louder voice of hope in this case. ... -Cliff Hall+++

I happen to be a chemist who works in the coatings field. Improperly mixed epoxy is a problem. Wiping as much off as possible will help. Using solvent will probably create problems too. Once cleanned off, if I had a way to add a little heat (120F for several hours) to the wrap to help the initially coating dry a little further prior to applying the properly mixed coating will help. Once the final coating is applied, the components will slowly intermix. That could lead to this coating being slightly tacky. Again, slight heat will help hardent this. Be careful to avoid blank distortion when ever you apply heat.

Heat will speed the cure provided the components were measured and mixed properly. I doubt that heat is going to do much with a 2:1 mix on a product designed for a 1:1 ratio.

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I pulled my desk lamp down close to the wrap. A majority of the epoxy dripped off. (No CP) Then I did as Tom said and it turned out perfect. Ya Ho!!
I would also like to say that this is my 10th rod and all I have ever used is the U-40 LS and high build. I have never had a bubble, fish eye or anything funky ever happen. The high build is the ticket for marbleizing with a thin coat of LS on top, they seam to get along well... Just a great product.
You guys are the fantastic...Thank You!!!
Greg Tucker

if you are using gudebrod 2 part rod finish, it cleans up with nail polish remover! you can clean the first coat off the wraps with that. i also agree that the
new coat will cure over the mis-mixed coat but it will take a while for it to cure to fishable dryness. the finish is the hardest part, stick with it, you will get it
figured out and then the next one will come out even nicer with a bit of experience. goodluck--fisheye--