Hi All,
Last year I built a 7ft. 1 piece spinning rod using a Shikari SHII med/fast popping blank for a friend and he found he has a hard time transporting it as he now drives a motorcycle!

I would like to make it into a 2 piece but I don't know the best way to do it!

I have 2 more of the exact same blanks. Do I have to strip the guides so I can slide the
ferrule piece(s) cut from the other blank into place? Can it be done without removing
the guides?

Also, I need to get a book and or DVD on rod repair and construction. The process
explained in Advanced Custom Rod Building for making a multi-piece rod said, that
process only works for the lighter weight rods. What would you recommend?

Thanks,


Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..

Raymond, if you have RodMaker Volume 4 issue 4 there is an artcle on it in there. Ralph O'Quinn shows how to make the ferrules out of fiberglass blank pieces that you oversleeve the tip section with to make your ferrule.

you can do this with an oversleave made of a piece of fiberglass blank or you can do this with a spigot ferrul also made from glass blank. if you make a spigot ferrul you won't need to remove any guides but you will need to be able to go in from the butt end of the rod which will mean you will have to remove the butt cap to get access. if you are going to make a spigot ferrul you will need a piece of fiberglass blank that will match the inside diameter of the blank at the point where you make the ferrul. wehn you cut the blank you will measure to the half way point on the blank and then add 1/2 the amount that you plan to have the spigot stick out of the butt section. the spigot should be 1 1/2 to 2". thus, before installing the spigot the butt section will be shorter than the tip section but when the spigot is glued in place both sections will be the same length. you
will have to do a ferrul wrap on both the male and female ferrul to reinforce the joint. i use long setting epoxy to glue these pieces up.

when you do your measuring and cutting work carefully and think everything through. i used a hack saw to cut the blank and i turn the blank in
a miter box and gracually cut my way around. i square up the ends with sand paper on a flat surface. once the spigot is properly sized and glued up you will find that the tip section slides right down to the butt section. you will have to trim back the tip section untill you have a gap of about
1/4 to 3/8" when the sections are tight together.

the hardest part is getting the sizing right for the spogot. start with a longer than normal piece of glass blank so you have some margin for error.
once you get a tight fit in the butt section mark the spigot where it comes out of the tip of the butt section. that reference mark will be the point where you measure from when trimming the spigot for how far it will fit into the butt section. make it about 1/4 inch longer than you want it to be
because when it is wet with glue it will slide a little further and stick our a little more than you anticipated. when pulling this piece into position make sure you don't pull it too hard because you can francture the blank where you have cut it. when dry don't put the sections together and
wiggle the rod untill you have done your ferrul wraps. if your glass blank is not strong enough you can make another piece and make a double walled spigot by putting one piece inside the other.

this sounds complicated but it is all logical. i made a three piece rod into a six piece using this tecknique and the rod fishes and casts beautifully.
i have also made a two piece from a one piece ultra light spin blank.

Thanks Spencer,
I'll have to order that back issue.

Larry,
This rod has a 17lb line rating is a spigot ferrule strong enough? The process you discribe
is very much the same as the one shown in the Clemens book and Clemens recommends
using it for light rods only because of a strength issue with that type of ferrule.
Or did I misunderstand something?

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..

Spigot ferrules do work, but the oversleeve type is the ferrule of choice in most instances. It's easier to get the strength and flexibility you need in the oversleeve type. With a spigot, it's easier to run into stress problems at the ferrule ends that can lead to blank failure.

.................

You could make life a little easier for your self and build him another 2 PC rod. Then sell or play with that one.
It can be done and is not to hard, but you should have several scrap glass blanks around to size the ferrule.. The over sleeve is a IMHO the better way to go. Good article in a back issue of the mag.

Check the library section and read the article by Ralph O'Quinn. His repair techniques can be adapted for a ferrule.

Bill in WV

Thanks Tom,
I knew I didn't misread something.

Bill B.
I was thinking about doing exactly that. Just build him a 2pc and trade.
However, If I don't give it a shot, well, thats like jumping off the bull in the shoot!
If I fail I will have to build him another rod but at least I will have learned something
for the effort. I like a challenge

William,
I guess I need to read Ralph's tutorial a couple more times. Went there first but the repairs are
makeing a perminant connection. I'm probably missing something that is stareing me in the face!

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..