This last week I decided to glue up both halves of a slip grip on one mandrel at the same time. I first glued up the section that attaches to the reel seat using just a thin coat of epoxy on each ring, when I had the last cork ring attached, I slid the first ring of the the butt grip on and glued the remaining pieces of the grip using thin coats of epoxy. Each section has six rings. The two sections were not glued together.

The next day I mounted the mandrel in the lathe. After about two minutes of turning, the butt section of the grip started to spin on the mandrel. I was able to finish the turning, but I had to go very slowly. My turning tools are very sharp and I was making very shallow cuts.

I did put paraffin on the mandrel. Did I put on too much?

Thanks for the help.

rhr

ralph, i would guess it's not the parafin, it's that the cork holes are a little big. put a couple of wraps of masking tape around the mandrel then push the grip over the tape, this should hold the cork so you can turn it. good luck

Ralph, I've had this happen where the grip wolud slip on the mandrel. Tape works OK, but I found using shaft collars in the size appropriate to the mandrel and tightened down under some compression helps a lot. I found some shaft collars at hardward stores, but found the best selection/price at a newly opened Harbor Freight store near where I live. Hope this helps.

Stan

Stan,
That is a very good idea about using the shaft collars. I am only five minutes away from a hardware store.

I glue my rings on a threaded section of rod. using large washers and wing nuts. After dry next day, take them off and ream ( smaller then blank to go onto ) and place on the correct mandril nice and tight. Then after they are shaped I ream to fit the blank they go onto.

Just a note - Andy's new mandrels are available with one end threaded about an inch and a half with a collar and spacer sleeves (like an oversize pen mandrel and are about the best thing to come along since the proverbial sliced bread. Holds ANY material tightly in place for turning. [www.rodbuilding.org]

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

One of the most interesting things about this rodbuilding thing is that you are always learning something new. Each time I get the feeling that I just might be getting better I find myself starting all over again. At least on this forum I know I can get good answers to my questions.

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll have to bring an extra few dollars to the show and get yet another mandrel.

rhr

When using Andys mandrels, I have found (Matt Davis told me) that NO wax is needed, and he's right. I stopped waxing the mandrels and and havent had a grip break loose since. It does take a good "knock" to break the grip free of the mandrel after it's turned, but nothing excessive and I just keep a spare piece of cork to slide down on the mandrel and smack it with a hammer, works perfectly.

I turned 3 COMPLETE split grips on one mandrel for my nephews rods I built for them as Christmas presents :)

DR

The object of wax is to prevent the grip from becoming glued to the mandrel. It is not needed on a mandrel that you are not using to actually glue the rings/wood. etc up on.

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!