I posted a question recently whether there was any standard rear grip length associtaed with a particular length blank and was told basically it's up to the individual's personal preference. That seemed logical at the time but now that I'm doing my second spinning rod, I keep coming up with more indecisions.

The difference between an 8" and 12"-14" rear grip on my 7'6" blank (or any blank for that matter) will change the intersection point by 4"-6". That 4"-6" difference should change the number of guides used in the tip section beyond the intersection point. And an 8" grip with ONE EXTRA GUIDE should result in a tip heavy rod compared to the same blank with a 12"-14" rear grip and ONE LESS GUIDE in the tip - yeah or nay? It would appear that the longer the rear grip, the less guides are used, consequently having a positive affect on rod balance. Seems to me there should be an optimum grip length "range" for a given blank length when using the New Guide Concept - they seem to be connected somewhat.

Also, an 8" rear grip puts the reel foot stem around 11" from the butt end, a 14" grip puts the stem 17" and would make fighting fish much easier but 14" on a 7'6" rod looks out of whack even if built with a split grip. But what characteristics of the blank would be changed by lengthening the rear grip? On my Rainshadow IP904, will I lose some of this blank power by having my hand at the reelseat further up the blank as compared to using an 8" rear grip and my handhold being much lower? Thanks.

Where you locate the reel does indeed affect any type guide set-up, not just the NGC. All of them would be affected because the butt guide position will have to change.

You have to consider several things when deciding upon a rear grip lenght. What size fish do you expect to fight and how much length do you need to get that rod butt back under the forearm or even the elbow to allow you to fight a larger fish without wrist or hand discomfort.

Do keep in mind that once the rod butt gets back much farther than your elbow, any extra sticking out back there is just wasted rod length. Don't go too long for the butt grip. I can't fathom having a 14 inch rear grip on that rod. About 9 to 11 sure, but not 14.

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I want as much business end as possible, with a sufficient amount of leverage over it. I am big proponent of the Michigan grip 4-5" rear 7.5 - 10" foregrip, even on a long spin rod I still only use a 4-5" on shorter spin rods a 6" rear grip. So on a basic spin rod, its 6" rear+ 4" seat + 3" foregrip =13"; the average distance from the meat of the foream to the tip of your knuckle (as if you were gripping a rod) is 15 -16" and 13" is more than enough to use one arm to fight a fish or jamb the rear grip into your belly for leverage. All the rear grip you really need is enough to two hand cast if required unless you need to put it in a rod holder.

On my own long 9-10' spin rods I employ a Michigan grip (Croix denotes it as an EASTERN Style grip not even giving credit where credit is due) the handle being as long as my forearm so there is no thought of choking up on the hook keeper and imprinting that into your finger. Most spin rods will be tip heavy unless weighted, but on a Mich grip style spin rod all one need learn is how to cast a spinning reel with your hand on the foregrip well ahead of the reel and in balance with the outfit as a whole. Then it is like operating a fly rod outfit and the casting operation, is a far less fatiguing. I'd rather have an extra guide to transfer the load and a little more business end to handle it. Casting with a long rear grip on a spin rod is troublesome also as the long grip can get in your way , being that long and in so tight to your torso. To me, there is too many advantages to a shorter rear grip to even consider a long one.

Ten to eleven inches is plenty on a 7'6" rod. You don't need it any longer. The fact that you grab the reel on the stem adds even more length to the butt.