Can some one crunch these numbers for me and give me the measurements
i want to do a 6 axis optical chevron wrap but i need the cross points for the spacing
butt is 24.5mm taper to 23.5mm wrap is to be 200mm long (or whatever length is deemed to look the best) pattern repeat number is up to whoever crunches it for me (again whatever looks best) its on a metallic electric blue blank (almost the same colour as gudebrod 9245 ) i want to do a gold under wrap with gudebrod 9245 and 9050 as the colours

Many thanks I1m pulling my hair out on this one so far i got a spool of thread on the floor knifed cos it aint working out
(billy as soon as i can get my paypal account verified ill get vizwrap )
Allen

DOUBLE-POST - DELETED - Cliff Hall+++



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/02/2006 02:12PM by Cliff Hall.

That's a really low taper angle. Look these numbers over.

BUTT [OD]: [PI = 3.14] * [22.5, 23.0, 23.5, 24.0, 24.5, 25.0, 25.5, 26.0 MM]

Depending on how many criss-crosses you make.
Pick the mid-point as the 24.0mm interval, and work OUTWARD from there. Not when wrapping, just for picking the number of criss-crosses.

Example: 6 criss-crosses: 23.0, 23.5, 24.0, 24.5, 25.0 MM
Add or subtract intervals from either end as you see fit.
6-criss-crosses LONG is about 6 x (25mm) = ~150mm minimum
plus whatever extra on each end for your tie-offs.

To set-up the three layout threads, you wind up dividing EACH INTERVAL by 3.
Yes, Allen, that math gets pretty inconveneint very quickly.

My advice is to -NOT- multiply the OD's by 3.14 (PI) and then to -NOT-divide the Intervals by 3 (for the 6-axis triple chevron).

The factor perfect correction factor of (3.14 / 3.00) = 1.047 is so close to 1.000 that you will have a MUCH EASIER TIME OF IT if you just use the ARRAY of ODs in the little table above as your Intervals.

"Keep It Simple, Sir", and you will enjoy this one much more. You will have very little distortion because your ODs happen to be within 5% of the perfect value for a perfect 90 degree angle square criss-cross intersection. You would have to do some packing anyway, no matter what you do when closing the wrap, regardless of the interval spacing method you use. So save your energy for the closing.

Do a careful layout for you interval table on paper and on your center-dots layout. And on your underwrap if you do one. Probably useless, UNLESS the thread is constantly slipping. With 6-axis wrap, a little slipping can really mess you up, so think about an underwrap as a no-slip platform. Or lightly scuff the blank where it will be covered by the wrap. Drift & slip would really drive you crazy.

Good luck, Allen. -Cliff Hall+++

Cliff I love your maths you are a mathmatical genius....
but i`m afraid that one has missed me by well over a mile i look at your dimensions and see that i dont get to 26mm od on the butt and 22.5 is well over a foot off where i want it to be
Sorry to seem a complete twat but i cant get my head round that onecould you email me a simpler version of how to get there
thanks
allen

Allen - I'll give it a try. If I don't get it done in the next 2 hours, it may not be until after midnight, but before mid-morning, barring the unforeseen - gotta go, -Cliff Hall+++

Meanwhile, if any of the real Dukes of Diamonds or Sherriffs of Chevrons are available, maybe they can get your layout started, too.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/02/2006 05:18PM by Cliff Hall.

VW doesn't get you the spacing for multiple axis wraps.

As Cliff stated, there ain't much fo a taper, you can pretty much space it evenly the whole length, and it will close. 24.5mm - what is that? The diameter, the circumference? That's either a monster blank, or a very small teeny weeny blank.

I'm back - Billy, I thought it was a monster blank, with a ~25mm OD. His taper is so low, can he just skip the adjustment and use 25mm for all intervals?
... Or should he make a little adjustment.

I've never done an optical chevron. That's totally closed, right? ... If he underwraps with the same color that closes, can't he afford to have spreading at the butt end and cramming at the tip, because the underwrap is the same color as the closing color?

He maybe he could just use a straight 24mm interval, since it divides nicely by 3 and live with a less than square (but not by much) intersection.

Then everything is like: DOTS AT

000-DEGREES AXIS: 0, 24, 48, 72, 96, 120, 144, 168 MM
180-DEGREES AXIS: 12, 36, 60, 84, 108, 132, 156 MM

060-DEGREES AXIS: 8, 32, 56, 80, 104, 128, 152 MM
240-DEGREES AXIS: 20, 44, 68, 92, 116, 140, 164 MM

120-DEGREES AXIS: 16, 40, 64, 88, 112, 136, 160 MM
300-DEGREES AXIS: 28, 52, 76, 100, 124, 148 MM

180-DEGREES AXIS: 24, 48, 72, 96, 120, 144, 168 MM
360-DEGREES AXIS: 36, 60, 84, 108, 132, 156 MM

That double-checks the spacing on the 2nd cycle:
000-180 AXIS SPACING = 180-360 AXIS SPACING Pattern

Q.E.D. - Allen, that should do it, unless Vivona or somebody tells me I got a big gap between the theory and the reality, that I really flubbed up somewhere.

I don't know the Pattern for this Optical Chevron. ... So I am gonna quit while I am ahead. When you start out. I don't know which dots you hit first
First 000-AXIS: 00-72-144- DOTS, then off the end for a turn around;
then 180-AXIS: on the way back, the 108-36 DOTS.
Then turn around up the foregrip, and hit the 60-AXIS , then the 120-AXIS, every 3 x 24MM = 72 MM for square cornered-chevrons

That's where (I think) I get lost, especially not knowing what the chevron layout is. I'm still thinking diamonds, and I don't know how the overlay with the Chevron is. And throw in that LEAVE, +2 , etc notation, and I can see why I am still working on my diamonds and multi-axis diamonds.

DOING IT in fact probably comes more naturally than in the mind.
I tried, ... -Cliff Hall+++



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/02/2006 06:42PM by Cliff Hall.

Its the diameter on a british beach casting rod most of my rods are upwards of 20mm OD.
i thought i saw a screen shot walkthrough on vw the other day that gave the spacing for 0 45 90 135 180 225 270 315 degrees (but i may have been asleep LOL)
so if i go
axis 1... 24.5..49..73.5..98.122.5..147..171.5..196..220.5
axis 2... 12..36.5..61.85.5..110..134.5..159..184.5..207
axis 3... 24.5..49..73.5..98.122.5..147..171.5..196..220.5
axis 4... 12..36.5.61..85.5..110..134.5..159..184.5..207
axis 5... 24.5..49..73.5..98..122.5..147..171.5..196..220.5
axis 6... 12.36.5..61..85.5..110..134.5..159..184.5..207
that should work then ( I want to make sure before i wrap it because i dont want to refinnish the blank again (4th time) due to the threads marking the finnish)
thanks
allen

Allen - what I would do is ONLY mark the 1, 3, and 5 axis with those numbers you wrote there:
24.5..49..73.5..98.122.5..147..171.5..196..220.5

Since you are doing an open pattern, you do not need to use TOS. Marking 6 axis, imo - is overkil. Just make sure you mark the 3 axs, and hit your points, then when you pack you line everything up by eyeball. It's MUCH easier to keep track that way, much quicker, and you have to line up when you pack anyhow.

I do not do 6 or 8 axis patterns, but I have doen a few doubles and I NEVER mark the 90 & 270 axis.