hi. I am looking into having a new setup put together. It will be used for plugging live eels from a boat. Here's the catch, although it will be mostly used from boat, it will be used for fishing the mud flats and creek mouths inside of rivers, with the occassional trip out front to the sandbars on the beach. It will never be fished in water deeper than 8-10 feet, with the majority of it being done in 3-6'. The majority of the fish caught are between 15-30 pounds, with the occasional 30+ pound class Striper mixed in, and there is always a shot at a 40+ pound class fish, so I need something fairly stout. I will be fishing 20# Fireline on one reel and have another with 15# test Ande mono. The main reel will be a 710z. Again, this would be for mainly plugging eels off a boat, but I might decide to throw a pencil popper with it every so often.

Would the Lami S-glass moocher SMB842F 7’0” be suitable? If not, any ideas on what I should look for in a Lami blank? I wont need anything much over 7' as it'll be used mostly on a boat. Thank you in advance for any advice!

i am helping a guy build a lami CGBT 841ML check them out.

Jonny - Next time you want to re-spool with 15# Nylon monofilament line, try the 1/4 spool of the Berkley Big Game Dark Green Nylon Monofilament line. It is MUCH more supple than the Ande Pink or White, and at least as good in knot strength and abrasion resistance. I used to use Ande Pink & then White, too for everything for years until I stumbled upon the Big Game, and the Ande has been retired. Ande was good enough for straight up-down yo-yo sinker bouncing off party boats, but when I started cold-weather CASTING (spinning or plug reels), that Ande was stiff and coiled like single-strand stainless steel wire - real JUNK for casting, I hate to say it. NO COMPARISON, the Big Game Dark Green is WAY better than the Ande Pink or White, and has a similarly low price - about $9 per 1/4 lb spool ... Catch a cow for me! -Cliff Hall+++

LOL! Funny that you mention that.......I feel like a dope right now.....I actually switched to Big Game myself from the Ande. I have no idea why I said Ande LMAO, cuz the only Ande I have used for a few years is Ande Flourocarbon, which I use to make a bunch of leaders every month. Big Game is currently the only mono I use in the Salt. Weird!

I am still having trouble finding the right Lami blank. My head is starting to spin!

LAMIGLAS “S-GLASS” MOOCH BAIT ROD:
MODERATE-FAST ACTION
SMB-84-2-F
7’ (84”) … 1-piece … ?#? Line … 0.75 – 2.25 oz … Mod-Fast Action
Butt 0.800” … Tip 6.5-64ths … 3.50 oz … $67.

LAMIGLAS “GRAPHITE” LIVE BAIT ROD:
MODERATE-FAST ACTION
GLB-84-1-M
7’ (84”) … 1-piece … 20# Line … 0.75 – 2.25 oz … Mod-Fast Action
Butt 0.575” … Tip 7.0-64ths … 2.87 oz … $79.

These two rods are about as close in ratings, taper and power as you can get and be made out of different materials. They are like the same rod, just one is made out of S-glass and the other is Graphite. So, whichever one you like the feel of better, that's the one. ... Specifications from Mud-Hole Catalog 2006, page 43.

For some unexplainable reason, I think I would prefer the S-glass for this kind of fishing with live eels. The throb of live bait like an eel seems to be a lower frequency than when you use vibrating or swimming plug. Like the eel’s slither syncopates better and more closely matches the natural vibration frequency of the fiberglass than the graphite, which means it takes less energy to set off the rod's alarm system. Well, that would be how I would try to describe it This may just be my nostalgia kicking in, since my last trip like this was fishing shiners for largemouth bass on a lake, rather than eels for stripers in moving water. Close enough.

Anyway, Jonny, - Paul’s suggestion of that Lamiglas CGBT-84-ML sounds really interesting. I wish he’d tell us more. What’s this TRI-FLEX ACTION-TAPER like?
Paul Reyburn: <[email protected]>

LAMIGLAS “TRI-FLEX” BOAT & TROLLING:
TRI-FLEX ACTION-TAPER
CGBT-84-1-ML
7’ (84”) … 1-piece … 25# Line
Butt 0.665” … Tip 7.5-64ths … 4.00 oz … $101.

Jonny – With the size of fish you are talking about, you may want to scale up the power factor in this rod. I would not call the SMB-84-2-F a “STOUT” rod when stacked against 20# stripers in shallow water. If you are fishing at anchor, that is even more of an issue, because following the fish may be tricky. But if you can move the boat, and fouling the line is not a big deal and you're not near structure, then the SMB-84-2-F is definitely a nice choice. If you find out later that you need to scale up the power later (we should all be catching bigger fish than we planned, right, LOL!!!), you can always build another rod, and refine your tastes accordingly, and / or practice your trimming skills on a SMB-96-3M or a MB-96-5M. Or try something "completely different" (-from Monty Python).

The Lamiglas SMB-96-3-M is a nice rod that can be cut to your desired power, action & length ($72), if you have confidence about doing that. This is getting a bit hard for me to say much more, because the definition of how stout is stout enough for this rod is hard to say. Even the MB-96-5-M is worth considering ($72). Now that stick I would call “stout”, even before you take 1-2 inches off the top and whatever else you want off the butt end to bring it closer to 7.0-7.5 feet long. It is also weighs ~10 ounces, so that may not be so welcome. … I’m not trying to muddy the water here, so I’ll back out, because you really have to think about the package deal here. Your SMB-84-2-F is certainly a sporty and good match for a Penn 710.

The Penn 710 (12# or 15# mono) was my main surf reel for years, but not for live bait (Penn BeachMaster 155, plastic spool w/20# ). Have you seen those new Penn CAPTIVA Series Spinning Reels – SUPER NICE and very reasonably priced. Captiva’s are made in Korea, I think, not at HQ in Pennsylvania, and I think it’s still the only Penn reel made overseas. Four sizes of Captiva to choose from. (Offshore Angler 2006 Catalog, page 38.) Worth a look if looking for another spinning reel.

It may be better to consider a nice bait-caster if you’ll get to do a lot of eeling for 20+ stripers. Never had anything more than ~20#er on a SPINning reel. The drag pressure made the shaft seize & reel leg bend on a graphite body reel (not Penn). NOT GOOD! … At least with a spinning rod it is easy to cast a small bait a long way on a pool cue of a rod. I don’t know how big these eels are – shoe lace or like a polish sausage? … Good luck, Jonny Bolt, … -Cliff Hall+++, Gainesville, FL-USA

Whoa! Thank you so much for the reply. I am going to read it over and over about 25 times to make sure I soak everything in! :)

This will be my first custom Lami. The idea of buying a longer rod and cutting down is definitely something I would welcome. I want something stout but not wickid heavy, as I cast eels for, on average, between 4-6 hours when I'm out there. I fish until my back burns and feels like its gonna explode lol, and I have been known to plug eels until my right trap muscle freezes, rock solid. So comfort is necessary.

Anchor is used about 1% of the time lol. Drifting only! HAHA. I would consider a baitcaster, but these eels arent shoe strings, and I am more comfortable in this particular environment with a spinning outfit.

I am definitely going fiberglass, so I will have a look at those rods you listed, and more than likely pick one I can have cut down. I am having a fishing buddy of mine churn this one out for me. He is the best live eel fisherman I have ever seen lol. He's already got a 61 pounder and 8 or 9 other 50+ pound fish under his belt, so I have a waaaaaaays to go :)

I have used the Captiva reels. A few years back, when they were introduced, I said "I gotta get a few of those this Spring and pound em" lol. I bought one without the baitrunner, and one with. The non-baitrunner model I had on a 7' medium Okuma stick I customized......I took it up to a dam thats a little more inland from me (on practically on the NH shore), one that I frequent for the Spring Herring (Alewive) Run. Well I hooked into a large fish that was up inside rocks and suds at the bottom of the dam/fish ladder, and it turned out to be a 25 pounder. Well, I luckily had 20 pound Fireline, because after working her over and getting her right up to the floating dock, the handle on the Captiva broke! Friggin "white metal". Rubbish. I threw that thing out. Luckily I was able to haul the fish in manually and release her without any damage or mishaps.

I still have the Captiva baitrunner model. I threw it on a custom 8.5' Ugly Stik InterCoastal (no longer made), and I use it for chunking/dead sticking out in the marshes and rivers. Used for fish in the schoolie-to 15# range. It works great, I like it. It's a lite setup, perfect for "Lazy Fishing" in my lawn chair out in the Marsh! lol. This is the best chunking rod I have ever used in the marsh.

Thanks again for great reply. I am actually gonna take a couple of those model numbers and go "window shopping" online right now! I am also gonna look into the rod that Paul posted about. I hope to have the right one picked out within a week. I will probably come back and post up which one I went with. Thanks again for taking the time to help me! :)

Jonny - If you are getting fish where there are rocks just a few feet down, you'll want a head-turning rod to lead that striper toward you. Since you want fiberglass and less weight, because you are a casting machine, consider the Lamiglas SMB-96-3-M ($72).

Sure the SMB-84-2-F will whip 10#ers all day long in your experienced hands. But if you want to land more of those 20#+ers in the boulder zone, I think you'll want more beef in the tip and backbone. I think you'll prefer the SMB-96-3-M cut to your liking over the lighter SMB-84-2-F.

You can cut the Lamiglas SMB-96"-3-M to a very customized power and action. When you get hold of yours, you'll see what I mean. It may be hard to get it down to 84 inches without making it too stiff. If you can live with ~90", you won't have to radicalize it too much. And the extra length will give you more line sweep on rear-back and reigning-in.

You could also trim the SMB-84-2-F, if you want to stay on the lighter side of your power-backbone range. Just a couple of inches trimmed off the tip will stiffen that up quite a bit. ...

But if you want more backbone deeper, the SMB-96-3M cut (~2") off the top and (several inches) off the butt may suite you better.

That MB-96-5M is also the stoutest to begin with, but it is more than three times the weight of the other two. Probably TOO heavy for your situation. Nothing delicate about that rod blank.

I still have an unbuilt SMB-96-3M and an unbuilt MB-96-5M right here in the corner. So, if you decide to use either of these, I may be of some more help.

Let me know. E-mail me if that helps.
Take care, Jonny Bolt <[email protected]>

-Cliff Hall+++ <[email protected]>

Hmmm........I had decided on the SMB963M! And I was gonna ask what would be the best way to go as far as cutting it down. Since you mentioned that already, I am thinking that it might still be a little long for boat use even after being chopped. I really dont use anything over 7' on a boat. Between 6.5 and 7' is my preferred range. A longer rod has always seemed "too much" for me, especially on a 17 or 18' CC. As far as casting and landing fish, it just seems uncomfortable to me. Maybe its just a stupid complex I have lol.

This @#$%& lol, maybe the 963 will end up being too much. But the SMB842F might not be stout enough? Damn it lol. Maybe I chop the SMB842F just a tad to get some more "beef" and power out of it? How is the butt end on the SMB842F? I must mention that I have another "complex" LMAO, and thats an uncomfortable butt lol. Especially when plugging and casting repetively. I always have to shop hands-on for most of my plugging rods (except surf rods ofcourse), and that is why I have a good selection of St. Croix rods, cuz the butts always seem to be just right lol. They never hit my side when casting and just plain comfortable.

So it looks like its down to the SMB842F and the SMB963M :)

LAMIGLAS “S-GLASS” MOOCH BAIT ROD:
MODERATE-FAST ACTION
SMB-84-2-F
7’ (84”) … 1-piece … ?#? Line … 0.75 – 2.25 oz … Mod-Fast Action
Butt 0.800” … Tip 6.5-64ths … 3.50 oz … $67.

LAMIGLAS “S-GLASS” MOOCH BAIT ROD:
MODERATE-FAST ACTION
SMB-96-3-M
8’ (96”) … 1-piece … ?#? Line … 1.00 – 3.00 oz … Mod-Fast Action
Butt 0.880” … Tip 7.0-64ths … 4.87 oz … $72.


If you order the SMB-84-2-F, there is less alteration of the rod by trimming needed to beef it up. Maybe ~2" off the tip will start to make a noticeable difference. And the length will be in your 6.5 foot to 7.0 foot range of preference. There is not much you can do to it to stiffen the deeper backbone. Upper trimming just stiffens the tip section. That may be all you need.

If you order the SMB-96-3-M, you KNOW that you want at least 6-8 inches shorter for length over-all (LOA). So you finish by trimming from the butt end, and literally throwing away the deepest part of your backbone. Now that does not make sense. So, this is a special case where if you really don't want to go over 84"-LOA, I would get the SMB-84-2-F. Plan on some light trimming from the tip end, and leave the butt end alone.

I am not certain about this, but I suspect that this SMB Series in this 7'-9' range are all literally rolled on the same cloth-flag and mandrel. That is the same "Mother Blank". The Mother might be like 10'-LOA. Then they just cut it from the uppermost section for the 84-1-E Model. And from the lowermost portion for the 108-3-M Model. And they cut it in-between for the 96-3-M and a little higher for the 84-2-F.

SO, that means for our purposes, we won't buy any backbone by trimming from the butt end of the 96-3-M. Trimming that butt will just throw away backbone.

The 84-2-F already has the same backbone as the 96-3-M. It just is that the 84-2-F is cut a little higher up the Mother's tree, for a lighter blank. It's almost like saying that the 84-2-F IS THE 96-3-M with some of the 96-3-M's TAIL-BONE ALREADY CUT OFF !!! - I'll e-mail you a copy (of below) later, Jonny. -Cliff Hall+++

Got to [www.rodbuilding.org]
Table of Effects of TRIMMING or EXTENDING a ROD BLANK
on its Various Performance Properties

"Table of Effects of TRIMMING or EXTENDING a ROD BLANK"
[www.rodbuilding.org]
If you want a SHORTER version of the rod, with nearly the same action, trim from the BUTT.
If you want a STIFFER version of the same rod blank, trim carefully / successively from the TIP.
If you want a LONGER version of the rod, with a very similar action, EXTEND from the BUTT.
The most dramatic alteration of a rod blank's properties would come from trimming its tip. Trimming or extending the rod blank from the butt end has a less pronounced effect on the rod blank's performance, with respect to the forward-tip’s action-taper. -Cliff Hall, G’ville, FL+++

Nice! Again, very valuable information! I think I am gonna go with the SMB-84-2-F :) That IS my final answer HAHAHAHAHA. Cant wait till its ready to go.