Good Morning Guys.....
I have a problem on my hands that I need advice on ! I build a striper rod about a year ago for myself and discovered yesterday that the reelseat hood is stuck, big time !!
Apparently when I added the foregrip some glue must have seep[ed into the reelseat.......
Question ?? How can I loosen up this glue ?? I am thinking a application of hot water ??
What do you all think ??

Many Thanks Guys...!!
ML

I would boil the billy, make myself a nice hot cuppa tea, pour the rest of the hot water over the hood and grab a dry cloth and twist should pop. Then boil the billy again for another tea.

O.K Myles.......You got me on this one !! " Boil The Billy !! ".........please translate for me !! LOL !!

Yes, I am going to try the hot water treatment, sure hope works..........but in the meantime, I will enjoy a cuppa of tea !!

ML...

Billy is the pot you boil boil the water on a camp fire. Your cowboys would call it something else. Coming from a camping background I even call the electric kettle "the billy".

Because the surface of the seat and inside of the hood nut weren't prepared for adhesion, you've got a good chance of getting them apart. A treatment of hot and cold can usually manage to pop things loose. Just don't go overboard and destroy the bond between the seat and blank at the same time. But generally, you can get these type things to turn loose with a little elbow grease.

........

Mary Lou - Be careful that whatever you do to loosen the HOOD on the barrel does not also loosen the REEL SEAT around the ROD BLANK. In other words, PROCEED WITH CAUTION.

Do you remember the brand-name of the adhesive used to mount the reel seat AND the name of the adhesive used to mount the grips? Are they the same for both the grips and the reel seat? ... Which adhesive got inside the reel hood and / or on the screw threads of the barrel body ...?...

Myles' boiled water trick is a good first-choice. But try to keep the heat on the local area where the hood is stuck. Don't give the boogger a full-immersion heating or too prolonged a pouring baptism. You may crack the REEL SEATS glue as well, then you will really have a problem.

When you stress the glue joint to crack it, make sure you hold one hand on the reel seat's BARREL and one hand on the HOOD SCREW-NUT. That keeps all the shearing force WITHIN THE REEL SEAT. If you hold one hand on the GRIP and torque the HOOD NUT, then you may wrench the reel seat off it's perch before the HOOD NUT glue cracks, because there is a shear line BETWEEN the grip & the barrel. (And you could damage the grip as well !) ... SURE, if you hold the GRIP, you'll generate more force, because of its fatter diameter and better grip. But you can also CRACK the glue under the reel seat, which leaves you with a horrible sinking feeling and a hoarse throat after you finish screaming. Don't be careless here - RESIST the temptation use the handle grip for extra leverage.

If the first attempts don't work, wear a friction glove if your hands slip when you try to crack the hood joint. Or maybe a towel will improve your grip. Also, if you can SEE where the glue flowed into the hood or screw threads, maybe a fine metal needle or mechanics pick can dislodge some of the glue. If it's a graphite reel seat, clean out the HOOD-SLOT on the underside of of the barrel of any glue, as well. A few dribbles of IsoPropyl Alcohol or Denatured Alcohol into the hood & threads can penetrate into the first tiny cracks and lubricate the joint failure. Do NOT use an oil. Alcohol wets the glue better than water or oil anyway, and it will evaporate. Do NOT try ACETONE (Nail Polish Remover). It may mar the barrel of the reel seat or bleach the color on an aluminum seat, or even get under the reel seat and ruin & crack your reel seat off the rod blank. ... And DON'T use a metal wrench on the hood nuts - you will shear-off the knurling on the NUTS. ("Oh, NUTS...!...")

If you think you may get glue into your hood, nut or screw threads on your next reel seat mounting, then you can use 2" wide good (LOW-RESIDUE) masking tape to cover the entire barrel and hoods to keep glue out & off it when you mounting it or the foregrip. Your glue may have dribbled down when you mounted your foregrip or spewed out at the final push into some crevice.

Good Luck, Mary Lou - Please let us know what kind of glue it was, how you think it got in there, and how you worked it out .
TIA, -Cliff Hall+++, FL-USA*****



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/24/2006 09:25AM by Cliff Hall.

Good Morning Tom...
I am so happy to report that I was successful only using very gentle elbow grease !! I wrapped the reelseat hood and the foregrip in wraps of masking tape.....and everything worked out perfect !!
I had made this rod for display purposes and never thought of checking the reelseat.......LESSON LEARNED !! Thanks Tom..!


Myles.........I am going to have that second cup of tea now !!.....

ML....

Thank You Clif for your reply......
Everything worked out well. I covered the reelseat and foregrip to protect it from scratches...........proceeded to pour some alcohol between the reelseat and foregrip and waited about a hour.......
Then, very gently I applied some pressure to the hood area,and sure enough, it started to give...........and sure enough, there was a groove that had some glue in it.....and that was holding it from turning !!
I had used Flex-Coat rod glue and have been using it for four years.........I always check the reelseats on rods that I build, this one slipped through the cracks.....
I am going to have to talk to the Quality Control Department !! ........LOL !!

ML...

Guess it was just enough to keep it from turning ?
When I put seats on, I put a piece of masking tape on the thread and hood of both ends. This way if I get glue on them it is easier to clean off. just pull off the tape.

Thanks, ML - It's tough to find good help these days, ain't it? Bring them in QC a cup of hot tea with lots of honey in it, to keep it a peaceful encounter. LOL, ...Best Wishes for a great striper season with your new rockfish hammer, ... -Cliff Hall+++

Your hood issue was a lot easier to solve than mine. I had one for display and some guy bought the thing. He came back a few day later in a huff and wanted to know how to put a a reel on the rod. Forgot to screw on the hood!

Gon Fishn

That is one reason I don't like to take things apart.

Good Evening Gentlemen...
Been busy working on rods all day !! The Striper rod had priority so I am happy with the outcome !!

Clif..........You are so right !! Just hard to find good help nowadays !! LOL !! The third cuppa of tea was great !!

Many Thanks To All..............
MaryLou

Myles,
Our cowboys would call a "billy" a coffee pot. Coffee keeps the USA running.

Rich Matranga
Folsom, California

I normally screw the reel seat away from the bottom of the threads (tighten the seat) and then wrap the threads with teflon tape (for pipe). It's not adhesive and it comes off easily.

Tony

Cliff , You are THE MAN, only guy I've ever seen that can write a dissertation on a stuck nut. Jesse

JESSE - Sometimes I think “I AM A STUCK NUT !!!” ... This WRITING ADDICTION is like a drug monkey. I spent two-pages last night diplomatically analyzing and recommending to an RBO fellow a BRACED wire-frame line guide over an UN-braced line guide. In my effort to not seem too opinionated, I had to search my own biases and re-discover why it was that basically, I HATE ALL WIRE-FRAME GUIDES! to begin with, unless forced to choose between the lesser of 2 evils. If you have time for another laugh on my account, see: [www.rodbuilding.org]

It was a good question, ... but I'll admit, my own verbosity can sink a battleship. But the exercise in persuasive writing and logical expression is “priceless” ... Next month, I may be selling Ice-Fishing Rods to Floridians and Bonefishing Rods to Minnesotans! ... (The job search is going very slowly)

Stay tuned, ... “You all come back now, ya hear!” ...
-Cliff Hall+++, Gainesville, FL-USA*****

P.S. – Before Charlotte arrives, we'll have Hiro Tanaka design an “Angry-Colors, Hot-Dragon Weave” for Billy Vivona's Left forearm. I guess we’ll have to saw one of Jim Upton’s Wonder Weavers in half, like a banana split, to fit around it. And we’ll have Doc Ski design a 6-axis Cross Wrap for Billy Vivona's Right forearm, using Scott Throop's secret recipe for 3-D shimmering threads. Meanwhile, I’ll work on the Spacing Formula for a highly tapered rod (~10%), and YOU can work on getting permission from the NY Yankees to use their Logo on his fishing rods !!! LOL, –CMH+++