I just did my first "coin inlay" at the butt of a rod (blatantly copying an idea from the photos section). Whats the best clear medium to cover it with and that can take the abuse of the rod standing on it? Regular epoxy? Rod finish (flex coat)? Would instant dry clear lacquer be good enough?

Thanks in advance.

I did cover my coin inlay with epoxy (5-min), which was a big mistake. You cant get air bubbles out from there. Next time I will put rod finish on it, since with that you get it air free. just my thoughts.......

Ahhh, shoot, I thought my idea was original when I did it 6 months ago!

Anyway, I used a new penny, and I wanted it to oxidize to the color of an old one over time so I didn't coat it. But coins, being metal, are naturally tough, so I don't think it would be a problem if it's not protected. Any epoxy coating will scratch befor the metal does.

Dave

Have not put an epoxy on any that I have done. But the only time my rods are standing up is when they are in a rod holder or on carpet.. The coins can tend to pop off if the rod is struck or bumped hard enough on the butt. there are two ways you can help prevent this.
1- If you can or have access to some one who does, you can tack weld a flat head screw to the tail side. If using a wood handle screw it into it (If it is solid and extends past the blank, MAKE SURE YOU PRE DRILL IT FIRST.) If backed up to the blank push enough epoxy into the blank and stand the rod up while it cures. So it will puddle around the screw and seal to it.
If you don't have access to a welder. Take some kind of grinder and make crisscrossing patterns in the tail side to give a better bonding surface. Mare sure to clean the surface with some thing to remove any type of oil that might be on it.

I've inlaid all sorts of stuff into the butt end of caps and rod butts. I like to cover or encapsulate the item with regular epoxy rod finish. I use LS Supreme, regular build for this sort of thing. It releases bubbles without being heated and remains nearly water white clear. There are other epoxies out now that might do as well. But I would stay away from anything that has a tendency to turn brown or yellow as with such a thickness it will be readily apparent.

I can't say that epoxy is really the best thing to use, but I've had pretty good results with it. I do get some scratches on the surface over time, but nothing that is more than similar to the other wear and tear on any rod used for fishing.

...............

Using a Dremel tool and sanding bit, I enlarge the hole in the end of the butt to be slightly bigger than the coin (usually a "lucky" penny) and deep enough that the rod finish (like Tom LS Supreme) will cover the coin and fill the cavity to just below the lip. Being slightly below the lip keeps (helps keep) the surface of the finish from being scratched.

Like Tom and Steve, I've put lots of stuff in that 'hole'. I also use rod finish and it works great leaving a bit of space between the top surface of the finish and the butt cap's edge to help protect the finish from scratching. I'd also recommend to prepare that surface before inlaying anything so that it doesn't fall out!

Putter
Williston, ND

I recently finished a rod which was a Golden Anniversary rod. It had a lot of gold on the rod; gold leaf, gold metallic thread, reel seat & guides. I took a dime minted in 1955 and covered it in gold leaf and glued it in the butt. Covered it with LS Supreme. Looked pretty good.

Bob Turpen