I wrap by hand and by eyeballing the threads (many times) I've been able to do a good and decent diamond wrap. I usually go 5 diamonds out. Instead of eyeballing the intial threads, can anyone refer me to a simple measuring tool that would make my intial thread layout quick and easy? My goal is consistent diamonds exactly evenly spaced. The measuring tool, what is it and where can I get it? Thanks

I saw Mike Joyce use a metric ruler last year that worked well. Mudhole also sells a buttwrap alignment tool.

Good Luck

Tony

A good quality compass with a screw adjustment on it for accuracy with sharp pointers. Can be set on a ruler and then put to the wrap.

The butt wrap alignment tools are nice to have. (I cut mine up to make another tool for routing EVA) I wind a peice of tape around a spot near the foregrip and mark my 0 and 180 degree position using a draftsmens circle template. I then tape a metric ruler on my 0 degree mark and by using the glare or reflection off the blank from above lighting as a guide or a "straight edge", tape the ruler off to the right.....scribe my crossover points on the blank. Hope that makes sense.

Bill and Michael, guys, you've lost me. Its my fault, not yours. My level of wrapping is primitive compared to you guys. Let me ask you this, a diamond wrap over and extended underwrap, whats good to mark your intersecting threads on the underwrap? I am able to comprehend using a small metric machinist ruler but the techno-speak of advanced artisans is beyond my comphrehension. Call me a shadetree wrapper that can only dream of being your level.

A ruler, some tape, and a pencil to mark the underwraps.

Lie out a long thread of NCP white. Next to a ruler. Mark you intended centers on the thread. Now tape the thread to the blank, on the 0 and 180 axis and make sure your thread crosses over the marks on the alignment thread (the NCP white thread). After you've made a few passes and are sure your alignement is good, snip the ends of the alignment thread and pull it out from under your centers.

..........

I have used a lenght of masking tape along the 0 and 180 degree axis and then a set of calipers to measure along the tape to be sure I was straight. I tried the thread trick found it too stretchy for my tastes. I finally broke down and bought a lay out tool, just have not had a chance to use it yet.

OK Tom, I got that. White NCP I have. One more question, I've never measured my diamonds before but what are the usual "centers" you guys work with?

I take a roll of masking tape and wrap it around the blank about six inches
above where you will be placing your stripper guide and wrap around the
rod. You'll want to wrap around the rod about twelve wraps off-setting each
wrap slightly as you wrap towards the butt, leaving a small space between
each wrap. You than can take a sharpie or marker and draw a straight across
the wraps. Now unwrap the tape and lay it along side the rod blank where
you want your diamond pattern, laying the last dot on the tape towards the
butt end. Take your sharpie and make a dot along the top of the rod where
your dots are along the tape and peel of the tap and you'll have a nice
tapered pattern. If you wrap your thread over the marks it'll cover up the dots
and any you don't use wipe off with nail polish remover or a solvent before
coating . good luck, John

I use this technique for open wraps:

I use a simple ruler with a piece of masking tape taped to one edge. On the tape I have blue, red, and black marks. Blue marks 2cm centers, red marks 4 cm centers, black marks 9 cm centers - for thin, medium, and large diameter blanks respectively.

If I have a medium dia blank and want compressed spacing I'll use the blue marks, or use the red marks for a pattern closer to a 90* spacing. For elongated wraps use the black marks. Once the ruler is set up there is no further need to measure anything, just lay the ruller onthe blank and transfer the marks to it.

To set up the wrap I simply chuck the blank on the lathe, lock the index pin on the chuck and align the 0* axis of the blank straight up, and catching the glimmer (reflection) from an overhead light to find the center of the 0* axis, lay the ruler on the blank and transfer the center marks to the blank. Rotate 90* and repeat 3x and I'm done. In less than 5min I have the centers marked on the blank and am ready to wrap.

Using this technique I can have a cheveron or diamond wrap finished in less than half hour.

Lou

Fred,
Flex-coat has a couple of Crosswrap alignment tools but if you have or can borrow a copy of "Advanced Cutom
Rod Building" by Dale P. Clemens you will find a chapter on tools and plans for making your own. Dale's
book explains quite well the various methods of lay-out, marking, and set-up. Tom's book may well cover this
as well and is much easier to get from the board sponsors. When your ready for the next level get a copy of
"Custom Rod Thread Art" also by Dale P. Clemens and the Visual Wrap software program by David Boyle!

Good Luck and If I can help just email me OK!



Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..

Fred - some of the guys above sound like real experts, and I am going to try their ways. What I have been doing as to spacing, though, is to make marks on each axis, using reflected ligth to ensure straightness. I make the marks about 2 times the rod diameter, and hit every other one. I make the marks with a china marker, and the ones that don't get covered are easily removed.
Steve Broadwell

Fred - I really don't have much room to talk judging by the work these guys do... Man - true works of art!! BUT... I built a "jig" for laying out diamond wraps out of 8" pieces of 1/2" and 3/8" copper tubing that seems to work pretty well. I use the 1/2" on the larger diameter blanks and the 3/8" on the smaller blanks.

I started by splitting each tube right down the center on a band saw, with plywood c-clamped on each side of the blade to act as a fence. I then drilled an 1/8" hole every 3/8" of an inch down the very center of the jig using a drill press. (Remember - precision measurements and a straight line are parmount) I continued the holes for 8" but cut the very last hole in half (perpendicular to the jig) on the band saw.

When I lay out my diamond centers, I'll place the "1/2 Hole" against the fore grip and mark EVERY OTHER HOLE on top of the bland and the "opposite - every other hole" on bottom of the blank, which places the diamonds at 3/4" centers. I'll place the reel in the reel seat to determine the "true top" (or bottom in the case of spinning reels and fly reels) of the rod, and use the draftsman circle template to align the opposite side.

I've noticed some of the instructions I've read on the board are a bit hard for me to follow and I realize mine are no different. If you would like a drawing of what I'm attempting to explain, just drop me an email and I'll send one your direction via email in Excel format.

Tight Lines & Tight Wraps
Mike H.
Cypress, TX