I just finished a weave that took me about 4 days to complete using 3M blue masking tape on the blank. While removing the tape from the blank , graghite fibers came off with the tape. I have been building rods for over twenty some years and have never seen this before. I however do not do many weaves. What the ???? went wrong.

Frustrated,
Muskyfsh
Jeff Leonard

What kind of blanky-blank brand blank is it anyway?
Unfinished? Matte? Paint over graphite? Gloss?

I have never used that 3M Blue Tape (nor done any weave), but I seem to vaguely remember something about some people using a layer of paper or paper towel towel under the tape (to protect the blank? or the underwrap?) from such a disaster, or something like that. I may be totally mistaken here, ... in which case, I'll apologize in advance. ... But if I am not too far off, then, in the interest of providing you some timely feedback, that is it.

An RBO SEARCH = "3M BLUE"(text) + "VIVONA"(Author)
"ALL DATES" may give you more specifics. -Cliff Hall+++



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/18/2006 08:29PM by Cliff Hall.

Tape shouldn't pull fibers out of the substrate, although this can happen on blanks that are not painted or finished in some way. Without the top coat to spread the load out, individual fibers can be lifted out.

Just a little tip for next time - stick the tape on your trouser leg and press it down, remove and then put it on the rod blank. This takes away some of the "sticky" and makes it less likely to repeat what you just had happen.

..............

Tom,

It is an honor to have someone of your stature to respond to my problem so quickly. These particular blanks have been my favorite for the last few years for musky blanks and have never had a problem. I usually build my handles directly on the blank due to the fact that they are fairly long and somewhat large in inside diameter. The only thing that I do is wipe down the blank with alcohol after gluing the rings with rodbond epoxy. Matte finish Diamondback blanks-THE BEST I HAVE USED.

Sincerely,
Jeff Leonard
Muskyfsh

I may be wrong Jeff.......but the blue tap, I think, is painter's tape and should be easier on things than regular masking tape. I had to use some awhile back because down here you can't buy anything off the self and did't have a problem. I do use it now on my seats to protect them durning construction. Works real well in protecting your seat from the glue or getting nicked. Stuff happens....Good luck,


Big John
Rio Hondo, Texas
Blessed are those who can give without remembering and take without forgetting

Cliff & John,

Thank you for your responses to my problem. Cliff ,I will definately keep your advise in mind for future consideration. John, you are correct the blue tape is painters tape and should not pose any problems what so ever. I can only imagine what would have happened if I used Doc Ski's recommendation of using Nashua tape on this blank ( no disrespect Doc you are the best). I am in the process of building my own weaveing tool this evening. If it turns out to be what I think it will, I will post on the pics.

Jeff Leonard
Muskyfsh

I have used the blue 3M tape that is like plastic on professional paint jobs for aircraft. The stuff is wonderful and can be left on for weeks if need be without the tape drying out on the surface it has been placed on. There is a blue painters tape by 3M that is also low tack, but is paper based and doesn't stretch like the other tape I mentioned. Reading on this forum I have learned that alcohol isn't good on rod finishes, more so on some blank manufacturers than others. As a former professional painter, alcohol is used as a normal step in preparation to remove any oils that may cause problems with the paint. It would make good sense in this application as well, but it seems that this is not the case. I have resolved to washing my hands thoroughly before handling anything and taping off the blank with the knowledge that it needs to be removed within a few hours, not days or weeks. I don't make many rods so I prefer to take my time and do a little bit when I have the time, but because of this I have found that I need to set aside a few hours to work in stages. Best of luck!

Scott Bearden

making tape has wierd properties. It sounds a silly question but you didn`t leave the rod in a humid enviroment did you tape seems to "grow" in strength when it gets a sniff of moisture and is left in place Toms idea is good but better is to stick tape to something LINT FREE
A quick gentle warm over with a heat gun (low powered hairdryer?) will allow "wetted tape to be removed easily

I use 1 1/2" wide masking tape Like Tom said, put the first few inches on your paint leg and pull off several times to take some adhesive off.

OK, I will apply the first few inches of tape to my pant leg from now on. If alcohol may damage a blank, what is the suggested solvent for removing epoxy from the blank after gluing up the handle?

Jeff
Muskyfsh

Got me? I always use Alcohol The forecast blank finishes are as hard as a rock.
I also put tape on the seat ends. A turn to catch any spill. easyer to clean up.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/19/2006 10:55AM by bill boettcher.

Jeff,

I'd take a closer look at the blank. Even tape with a very aggressive adhesive should not be able to pull fibers out of a properly cured epoxy composite. The odd thing is that most blanks will have a finish over the outer scrim so you don't tend to see the linear fibers on the surface anyway. Even in a sanded blank, you usually will see the finely woven glass scrim, or non-woven carbon fiber scrim on the outer surface layer. Again, even if there were linear fibers on an unfinished surface, you shouldn't be able to pull them out even with a very aggressive tape unless the blank isn't properly cured or there's some type of some damage.

As far as solvents go, you'd be hard pressed to find an organic solvent that will harm the cured blank but some will attack the finishes. There was a recent thread on the sensitivity of the Croix finishes to some alcohols...100% Methanol or Ethanol can be hard on them but Isopropyl, or Rubbing alcohol are much less aggressive. Some other finishes like on the Loomis blanks for example don't seem to be bothered by any alcohol, Acetone, or MEK. If you’re unsure, test in an inconspicuous area.

mark

Since when is alcohol bad for rod blanks. I thought it was about as safe as safe can be?

Jay

Jay
There was just a post on here a bit ago where the finish was pretty easily rubbed off a St Croix and a few others chimed in with similar problems on the same blanks. I've never had it happen personally.

Putter
Williston, ND

I just got a St Croix SC II. It was to be a satin Black, looks more a gloss black ?? Have no idea what to think. Guess some one was heavy hand-en.
Now I am all confused. The drop down window on there site, say spinning SC II satin black, the page with the list of blanks on top says gloss black pearl.

Bill,

The new, 06 SCIIs are a glossy black with a very fine silver glitter in them. The 05s and earlier were satin black. The drop down window must not have been changed over yet.

mark

Your right. I have to take a look at it in the sun. If I can find any this time of year LOL

Re: Major Concern ... Jay Lancaster ... Jan. 19, 2006 01:41PM
Since when is alcohol bad for rod blanks. I thought it was about as safe as safe can be? -Jay

Re: Major Concern ... Randy Parpart (Putter) ... Jan. 19, 2006 02:06PM
Jay - There was just a post on here a bit ago where the finish was pretty easily rubbed off a St Croix and a few others chimed in with similar problems on the same blanks. I've never had it happen personally. ... Putter, Williston, ND

Re: Blank Flaw? ... Andy Dear ... Jan. 12, 2006 10:20PM
[www.rodbuilding.org]
The MATTE finish on most St. Croix blanks is very tender and will wipe off with alcohol or anything stronger.. I asked a St. Croix employee about this one time, and his response was "Why would you wipe a blank with alcohol?" It doesn't matter if it's a low end blank or an SCV the matte finish is just not durable at all. Andy Dear, Lamar Mfg.

Re: Blank Flaw? ... Charles Clayton ... Jan. 12, 2006 10:25PM
[www.rodbuilding.org]
Alcohol will take the shine off a lot a car lacquers and even powder-coated metal. It’s generally safe, but it’s always a good idea to test the butt of the blank first when you plan to use it. Regards Charles Clayton.