I have a couple old sabre chockolate stroker factory wraps. They belonged to a dear friend who passed away, and I need to refinish them for his grandson.
The guide wraps are not a problem.
The entire blank is covered with a coating that is flaking, peeling, and coming off. It's fairly easy to remove from the blank, but I'll lose the decals with it.
With the old finish off, the blank is dull, where it once had a shine to it.
What is the best finish to recover with?

Should I use a flex coat or classic coat lite, or is there another finish to cover the non-wrap areas of the blank?
Mud Hole also lists U-40 permagloss, but I'm not sure by the description what that is designed for.

Any help would be welcomed.

Hi Herold,

Back in the day Sabre's were my very favorite rods!
U-40 Permagloss is definately the most recomended refinishing product here on the board. Permagloss is designed for exactly the purpose you are talking about.

That being said, you could also use a spray urethane or just about any clear coat. The Flex-Coat products are
not for re-finishing the blank! They for protecting the thread wraps. Others have made the mistake of using the
light formula epoxys to cover the entire blank DON'T DO IT!

The best advice I can give you is to go to the library section here and read the article about refinishing blanks.
Then check the FAQ section as well.

Jimmi at the Decal Connection can make you a great decal to replace the original but they will not recreate the
factory logo without writtin permission.

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..

U-40 Perma Gloss is advertized a a precatalyzed, one part uerethane finish. Tough, durable and non-yellowing.

Thanx for the point to the article.
Has anyone used this product or know where to get a ssuitable 2 part. Seems this has been precatalyzed, so may work the same.

U-40 Perma Gloss is advertized a a precatalyzed, one part uerethane finish. Tough, durable and non-yellowing.

Thanx for the point to the article.
Has anyone used this product or know where to get a ssuitable 2 part. Seems this has been precatalyzed, so may work the same.

Harold
The original decal/lettering etc SHOULD be under the finish that is flaking off. To be on the safe side though pre-test an area that has some original finish on it and apply a bit of U40 PermaGloss. If there is no adverse reaction between the original finish and the U40 leave the finish over the decals and cover with U-40. Once that has set up go ahead and take off as much of the old peeling / flaking finish as you can, LIGHTLY abrade the blank with scotchbrite or 400 (or higher) emery cloth; wipe off any dust. Put U40 on a doubled over coffee filter, wrap it around the blank and wipe the blank in one swipe. That should leave you with a very nice finish on the blank.

Thanx. Unfortunately, the decals wereover what appears to be a varnash, with a second coat over the decals. The decals were shot too, and I'm not so interested in keeping them as in keeping grandpa's rods alive for his grandson.

The finish is coming off slowly but surely with a dull edge spatula. It's really brittle and just shatters off. I've got all winter, so I'll take my time at it.

There's a gouge in the glass at on point, where the outer layer of glass is scraped through, but it's pretty far below the shut off point on this rod. I may fill it with a few drops of epoxy before applying the U-40.

This rod is a 671C 7 ft, rated 25-80 and always fished with 40# on a Penn 4/0 reel. We even found a picture coming off one of the first trips on the Q-105. The other Sabre was rated 25-60 but the model number was illegable. That one was mated to a Penn 500 with 30# line. Amazing how many tuna were caught on those 2 rods.

You have a couple of dynamite classics there Herold.

Good luck and post some photos when your done OK?

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..