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Re: graphite vs. masking tape arbors
Posted by: Ralph O'Quinn (---.wavecable.com)
Date: January 05, 2006 07:01PM

Stan
When one knows exactly what one is doing, and one proceeds to properly execute what one knows to be the correct procedure to cancel out the dangers that exist -- then there is NO RISK. Its only when one doesn't properly appreciate the dangers involved and/or doesn't know what to do about them that the operation becomes a RISK. There should be NO risk involved in anything we do as custom rodbuliders, except the risk of making a buck or not.
Ralph

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Re: graphite vs. masking tape arbors
Posted by: Stan Grace (---.hln-mt.client.bresnan.net)
Date: January 05, 2006 07:23PM

Ralph,
I'm not questioning your experience and skill nor that of Putter but the many of us that lack your knowledge will be taking less risk with our final product if we avoid using masking tape arbors. I sense that many users of this site don't fully appreciate the methodology for applying masking tape arbors in a fail proof manner or there would be fewer inquiries regarding their use.
Stan

Stan Grace
Helena, MT
"Our best is none too good"



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/06/2006 01:49PM by Stan Grace.

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Re: graphite vs. masking tape arbors
Posted by: Anonymous User (Moderator)
Date: January 05, 2006 08:03PM

There is another danger with paper tape (masking tape) and it regards the adhesive used on the tape itself. It's not a permanent type adhesive and over time it will dry out. At that point, the tape can slip on itself. For every paper tape bushing I've found that failed due to geting wet, I've found two that failed due to drying out and shrinking.

One of the problems with any arbor or bushing set up, tape or graphite (foam) regards builders trying to make up for a poor fit by just pouring in more adhesive. A craftsman, which I hope most rod builders either are or aspire to be, will take the same pains creating his or her reel seat arbors/bushings/shims as he or she does wrapping and finishing the guides. Just because it's going to be out of sight doesn't mean it should be out of mind.

Good materials, good fit, good bonding proceedure and attention to detail usually result in a reel seat mount that will outlive all of us. It's only a little extra time against a lifetime of use with an item that you don't want to fail. Remember, when you hear a commercial rod company talk about the "lifetime" of a fishing rod, they're talking about 3 years. Yes, most say that if a rod lasts for 3 years, that's considered the expected lifetime. So, they aren't building things are carefully as most custom rod builders should be - at least not if you intend to be using your rods for much more than 3 years.

.........

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Re: graphite vs. masking tape arbors
Posted by: Randy Parpart (Putter) (---.propel.com)
Date: January 05, 2006 10:05PM

I'll say that Rod Bond has made me feel a lot better about getting the masking tape coated on the sides and that the adhesive will stay there and completely seal this critical area much better than the old liquid epoxies. I went through all kinds of contortions turning reel seats with masking tape bushings drying with the liquid epoxies to ensure that the sides stayed covered. Certainly no more worries about that.

Putter
Williston, ND

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Re: graphite vs. masking tape arbors
Posted by: Ralph O'Quinn (---.wavecable.com)
Date: January 06, 2006 02:22AM

Tom
The proper usage of masking tape as a fail safe arbor, is to totally encapsulate the masking tape in rodbond. This is a simple thing to do, and takes only normal skills and a few minutes extra time. Now that the masking tape is TOTALLY encapsulated --- the rodbond becomes the arbor and the masking tape merely the mold that formed the arbor. Every failure of a masking tape arbor that I have ever encountered was because the builder left BARE masking tape inside the reel seat. This is absolutely guaranteed to cause grief and great gnashing of teeth over a period of time. The tape doesn't even have to be soaked, high humidity, or the normal spray encountered on most fishing trips is sufficient to loosen the poor adhesive's found in ALL paper masking tapes. I have never been able to satisfactory explain why some of them will last for 15 -- 20 years, while some of them go to pot in a year or two. There are many brands of paper masking tapes on the market and it is realistic to assume that some are much better quality than others -- presumably the good quality ones will last while the poor quality ones go to pot first. I honestly do not know if I use good quality masking tape or poor quality. I'm not sure if I could identify the difference if someone handed me a roll of each. I do know that when totally covering the masking tape arbor with rodbond, you can sleep soundly at night with the knowledge that your efforts will be intact as long as the rod is in existence.

Ralph

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Re: graphite vs. masking tape arbors
Posted by: Anonymous User (Moderator)
Date: January 06, 2006 09:13AM

Take some of your tape and stick in on a windowpane. Let is stay there, in sunlight, for about a week or so . Then remove it. If it comes off clean, it's one of the better ones. If it tears or leaves adhesive on the glass, it's one of the cheaper ones. Not that it makes much difference, but if you want to know, that's one way to find out. Almost all the 3M tapes of any kind are superior to the budget dime store brands.



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Re: graphite vs. masking tape arbors
Posted by: Randy Parpart (Putter) (---.nccray.com)
Date: January 06, 2006 10:09AM

I also like the 3M's (Scotch). The "Duck" brand, a common dime store brand, is one of those to avoid.

Putter
Williston, ND

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Re: graphite vs. masking tape arbors
Posted by: Anonymous User (Moderator)
Date: January 06, 2006 11:23AM

I've never been disappointed in any 3M product I've purchased.

.................

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