I have a couple motors. One is 4, the other is 36, and another is 40 RPM. Opinions on which speed is best when using Thread Master?

I woud suggest nothing over 6 RPM

In reference to my earlier post "I woud suggest nothing over 6 RPM "
that is my opinion. Below is what Flex Coat say's on their site

"It is helpful to rotate the rod on a small (6-200 RPM) gear motor while applying the finish. Most rod builders find it easier to apply finish at higher RPM.
In addition, it is best to dry the rod by continuously rotating it on a small gear motor. However, for a level finish, the gear motor should not exceed 30RPM."

I much prefer hand turning or my 4 rpm motors

Mike

I use a 40 RPM motor, and have no problems....with any finish.

I've gone the "no motor" route and I think my finishes are now better than ever.

I have a 6 rpm drying motor and it seemed great for drying but about half what i think I would have liked for applying my coating.

I use an 18 rpm motor and have not had any problems.

Much like Mike & john, I prefer hand turning. I turned the rods 8rpm, but feel I get a much better finish turning by hand.

i am still kind of new to it all. i have the one on my pac bay machine which says 34 rpm.i don't know if or how much it is reduced through the pulley system but it does turn much faster than the bench dryer i have which is 4.8 rpm.i apply the finish on the pac bay machine then do the necessary work to get it how i like it ,let it drip then wipe,then again if needed,then flame if needed to remove any bubbles..then i switch it over to the bench dryer very carefully.i like how the faster machine speeds up the application of the finish and the slower dryer finish looks in the end over the much faster pac bay dryer.i found it has a much more even finish with one coat of high build.i have only used light build a few times over size a thread.i found one coat of light seams to coat and level nice on the slow dryer over size a thread..before i had them i would stay up for hours turning rods by hand and the end result was very nice.untill i fell asleep one night in my chair.when i woke up i had sags on the side of the rod to remove and refinish.so i bought these toys to help me.along with all the tips i have read here..thanks

sorry my bad.i started reading and forgot this was about thread master and replied as i would to my experiences with finish..i have not used thread master yet .i do plan on trying it out very soon and is the reason i was reading this thread..

Leon,
How about doing an experiment with all those motors and let us know which speed works the best. I'd be curious to see the results. Randy.

From one that has worked in the coating industry, you want the highest rpm possible (that does not sling the finish everywhere) for the best leveling. There are many factors which control the optimum rpm. (viscosity, surface tension, coating thickness, etc.-many factors you have no control over.). I don't care to go into the science and all the formulas associated with this. I have done several experiements in this area. No one motor speed is best for everything. Since I have not received my Threadmaster from Andy Dear (or the mandrel) at this time I cannot tell you what is optimum. But my guess is that if people are able to work at 40 rpm that would give the best leveling. (I suspect somewhere between 40 and 220 rpm is optimum) I have worked at various rpm's for several different materials and yes, I have epoxy on the walls. I have considered writing and article for Tom to publish concerning the practical aspects of motor speed for various applications. ie, for marbling you want to stay as slow as possible and have a fairly high viscosity for best results. I can't wait to give this Threadmaster a try. One major cocsideration is the fact that most of the coatings we use thicken (increase viscosity) as a function of time. This does throw a "monkey wrentch" in all the scientific theory associated with coating.

Ed Smith

Ed,

I can't speak from a scientific standpoint, and I certainly respect your opinion, but I have found over the years and having used most of the finishes available with drying motors ranging from 2 to 40 rpm (yes, I have all of the speeds) that there is NO comaparison from ANY of them as I get from hand turning. Not even close! This is strictly my experience and opinion, every one else's mileage may vary!! Even the manufacture's that apply at 200 rpm transfer to slow drying motors.

I think that the key is to find and use whatever speed/methods gives YOU the result that you are looking for. I know that I will be using Threadmaster next week and will hand turn it.


Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

To 'me' (and probably only me) the key to a clean, level finish is removing the excess epoxy after application. I have an 18 rpm motor and I use it to apply my finish. I think I'd enjoy a faster motor for that, but it's what I have. I also use the same motor for curing the epoxy. BUT between the application stage and the curing stage I turn the motor OFF. Taking the time to allow the epoxy to level and removing the excess while the motor is off is key (again I say it is key to ME). When I'm satisfied that the excess is removed, no sags, I then turn the motor on and walk away.

Personally I'd like a clutchless 40 rpm motor. These little cheap 18 rpm motors that will turn in either direction work fine for small rods, but when you get up to big stuff with wind-on or Big Foot roller guides the motor heats up. This causes the clutch to fail and the rod will not turn...not good!

Jay