The Rod a Daiwa Powermesh 13 ft - 2 piece Steelhead Float Rod .
(Model # PP132-2RS) Daiwa Carbo Whisker - 1/16 - 3/8 oz lures
6 to 8 lb line.

DOES ANYONE KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT THIS PARTICULAR ROD .... ?

1/ - Originally a factory built rod.

2/ - Rod re-wrapped new high frame SIC's fitted ! (not my work - done by previous rod buider)

3rd Time now I'm planning a tip to butt "complete re-build" (including new handle)

The rebuild was done using the original factory guide positions.
My plan is to change positions of the guides as per this board and use the guidelines as noted in the library (static guide placement)

This particular rod blank has beautiful underlying black cross-weave. As is obvious because of the new guide position there will be areas that need to be cleaned and the blank either re-varnished (?) or re-varathaned (?) suggestions here ... ! the next step will be to next position guides then wrap in the "normal way" !

As nearlly all my previous rods have been built from scratch - I'm wondering if there is anyone that could give me some guidelines here in making the areas like new - I do appreciate this will take considerable time and patience to do this properly. I do not want to to damage the blank - when I clean it up.

Can anyone give some help here OR make some suggestions on how I can tackle this project ?

Many thanks
Mal. Marlow

I would proceed to remove the guide wraps by cutting on top of the guide foot and peeling off the thread and epoxy. This will be easier if you use a blow drier to lightly heat the wraps first. Be careful not to overheat the blank as you will definitely damage it and possibly melt it.

As for removing the remaining finish, try denatured alcohol and keep chipping off as much as possible with a dull exacto blade held at a 90 degree angle against the blank. Lastly, you can use grey ultafine scotchbrite or 000 and 0000 steel wool to get the remaining finish off. if you use the latter, you will need to do the entire blank and remove the gloss from the entire blank. Then, you can either leave it as a matte blank or use permagloss or a spar urethane to finish the blank. Do a search her under blank refinishing.

I recently did a Fenwick Fenglass 6ft 5wt and left it as a matte blank. I actually like the way it looks and it definitely is a lighter blank with the gloss removed.

Good Luck.

Lou

As Lou says, the easiest method is to strip the blank bare. However, if you want to save the paint, carefully peal the epoxy off and lightly sand the top coat where the old guides rested with 1000 grit sandpaper, then buff the entire blank with 0000 steel wool and put on a couple of coats of polyurethane with a coffee filter.

Don and Lou - Thanks for your response.

Could you give me some clarification on which is better for the actual rod finish
either the permagloss, or the polyurethane !
Don't even know where to start with the application using a coffee filter - could you tell me how ?

Many thanks
Mal.

Mal,

I use Spar Urithane, using the Tom Kirkman method modified slightly. Instead of using a split sponge paint brush, I use about a 2" slice of sponge split a little more than halfway. I then soak my sponge in the urithane. Having my blank hanging with the tip end down, and using rubber gloves, I wrap the sponge around the butt end then slowly and evenly pull down to the tip end. I let the urethane dry completely and repeat. I find that 2 coats is usually good, but you can do as many as you think you need. Works awesome. Try to have as dust free an environment as you can.

Bill in WV