I need to add a small saw to my workshop for cutting wood, reel seats, polyester resin, cork and perhaps solid fiberglass blanks. I'd like to make very accurate and repeatable cuts. I see some small Miter Saws by Porter Cable & Delta for about $135.00 and less. Anyone have experience with these low end models? I figure I can add a laser to improve accuracy. I cannot afford a decent band saw and I don't think a scroll saw provides the same accuracy of a Miter or Chop saw.
Suggestions are welcomed.

Any of the name brands such as you mentioned will do the job just fine. Make yourself a stop set up,and it doesn't really have to be very fancy, a board screwed to the table you set up your saw on will work just fine. I would also not bother with a laser, a sharpo pencil and a pair of reading glasses will be more than adequate, use the money you savee for other things.
john

I have a small chop saw from Harbor Freight that cost around $30. I replaced the steel saw blade with a thin abrasive grit cutting blade. I use it to cut anything that I have ever needed cutting with good results. The tool is not the most powerful here is, but it's powerful enough and gets the job done. The saw makes very precise 90* cuts.

Lou

I actually laughed a little when reading this... after weeks of reading and learning here, this is the first thread I can actually contribute to!

Buying a mitre saw can be confusing due to litterally hundres of them available. One thing you may or may not know is that most of the cost in the "expensive" saws comes from capacity to cut large stock. Even the $600 Delta (which is also one that I own) will not cut any better than the $89 Black & Decker 10" from Wal-Mart (which is another I own) until they are trued up. Some have adjustable stops and the gauge can move, allowing you to "zero" the angle. I hate to admit this but my old Black & Decker was my saw of choice for smaller stock (under a 2 X 8) and picture framing. It is cheap, light and portable but most importantly, once set up properly it does all that the "nice" Delta does but on a smaller scale. (unless you need a slide or bevel) That particuler saw did not have an adjustable gauge on it but with 10 minutes of my time, a framing square and some scraps I found that it was off by 3 degrees. (I also had to set up the stops on the Delta for angle and bevel) With that knowledge, I can cut perfect crown moldings or whatever I want. And 10" blades are a WHOLE LOT cheaper than the 12" blades.

Unless you have other needs that you didn't list, you could buy something in the $100 range plus a few blades and take the extra money you would have spent and buy your next really nice blank.

Oh and I wouldn't bother paying for the laser... the idea is nice but I have yet to see a saw of any kind or make that actually cut right on the projected mark.

-Keith

Lou, John and Keith,
Thanks for all the good input. I'm confident now that the little saw will do the job. I'm not sure how to true it up but once I get it I'll seek help if I need it. I'll pass on the laser too.
Dave

Dave,

When you get the saw take your framing square and lay it on the saw, one side against the fence and the other against the blade. (unplugged, with the blade pulled down in the cutting position) That will confirm it's true or not. Repeat with the saw set in the 45 degree stops. That's all you need to worry about in the begining. When the 0 and 45 are set right, the stops in between will also be.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/12/2005 08:29AM by Keith Neidhart.

Dave,

I noticed that Amazon.com has a Porter Cable 10 inch compound miter saw with twin lazers on sale for $179 with free shipping. It is a few bucks more than you were planning to spend, but with the lazers already installed, it might be worth it. Just a thought...

Jim Smith

I was so impressed with my cut off saw that I recommended it to Merrick Tackle and they sell it on page 31 of their current catalog. I have also cut steel with mine and it is truly a great machine for the price. Jesse