I've had an interesting first-time rod-repair journey and have two questions below.

The Goods: My custom-built 4-piece Allstar Austin 9' 5wt with rather pricy parts.

The Situation: Tried to overpower a snag and snapped the blank's 2nd thickest piece about 1" above the inserted female ferrule. I'm sick and must try to repair the rod. No experience, though, with rod repair.

My Eventual Rationalization: Probably my fault. Poor rodsmanship. Pulled at the wrong angle too hard.

My Research and Purchase: Studied Tom O's rod repair article in a back edition of RodMaker over and over. Have no idea where to find cheap fiberglass rod pieces to keep the repair parts at a lower modulus than the rod. So, I purchased a cheap, graphite, low-modulus rod for $15 to use for parts.

The Fix: Trimmed the snapped portion, about 1/2" on both sides, to get to solid blank. Then, discovered that the bottom part of the trimmed section, when inserted into the female ferrule, extends only 1/4" above the inserted female ferrule (*&$%). So, inserting an internal plug was out of the question like Tom O suggests. Thus, I constructed an edge-beveled outer sleeve of 2 1/2" and Rodbonded the two parts together inside the outer sleeve. Outer sleeve covers bottom part by 7/8". So female ferrule extends beneath outer sleeve ~3/4".

That process (actually a journey of thinking and cutting) was very interesting as trying to cut tapered outer sleeves from blanks to correctly mate over broken blanks involves quite a bit of cutting and testing, even when using a micrometer. But--and this is the reason(s) for my questions (I think)--I did not have to split the outer sleeve to slide it onto the upper section.

The Result: Before I made the fix, I deglossed the outer sleeve and found that the color pretty well matches the Austin graphite color and sheen. The upstream tolerances between the sleeve and original blank are very small. I'm pleasantly surprised at how it looks.

The Question: Is it necessary to wrap thread and apply epoxy over the outer sleeve in this situation?

And: Did I take the correct approach to solving this problem?

Thanks for any input,

Brian

i would and i would use regular not ncp with no color preservant and thread color that matches the blank.

Forecast 2003 e-glass blanks make for good material for repairs