While working on my first rod, I applied the first coat of FlexCoat Lite in a thin coat, just enough to soak in but still see the individual thread wraps easily. I then filled in the tunnels and gave the wraps a second coat a few days later, a little thicker than the first, which pretty much filled in the thread and created a smoother finish. I cleaned the wraps well before applying each coat by touching masking tape to the thread to pull any dust off just prior to applying each coat.

I noticed last night that I experienced some "pimples" on some wraps more than others. Not thread ends, but what I would best describe as pimples or bumps. Would these be air bubbles? If so, I would have expected them to be round, somewhat translucent and not pointed. I suspect dust, even though I feel I cleaned them with the tape.

Now, in my attempt to delicately sand them down using fine emory cloth, I managed to slightly fray the thread in a couple of spots. Short of removing the finish and wrap and redoing it, what should my next step be that I can try?

Should I apply another "thin" coat to try to knock down the fine frays? Or should I apply a heavy coat and try to bury them?

I hesitate to try applying heat to newly applied epoxy in fear of accelerating the drying process prior to the epoxy leveling or to the epoxy prior to applying because I don't want to shorten the pot life. As a rank beginner I feel the pot life is already too short.

I have since searched the site for similar problems and solutions and discovered that I may have wrapped the guides too tight. As far as mixing the epoxy, I believe I did it correctly - taking my time to mix well, not too fast and placing the mix into a lid lined with aluminum foil to help minimize heat and bubbles. I used a quality size 4 flat bristled sable artists brush. Would I have been better off with the cheap disposables?

Your help, once again, will be most appreciated.

"I cleaned the wraps well before applying each coat by touching masking tape to the thread to pull any dust off just prior to applying each coat."


Never touch the wraps or top finish coat before applying epoxy. Masking tape can raise a fuzz on the thread and should only be used if you need to clean a small area. Just a light touch is all you want. And never touch existing finish with masking tape. If you need to remove dust or whatever, keep a soft bristled brush handy and dust off those areas that way. Don't use masking tape or any other adhesive or solvent as the last step in your finish preparations. Dust is rarely a problem, tape and solvent residue usually is.

Without seeing it I can't really advise you. If the fuzz or pinholes are very slight I'd probably just recoat with as much as needed to correct things.

.................

Ralph; Assuming that you are using a thread that did not need CP. I would put on another coat and see how it looks. You didn't say how thick you wanted your final coat but you will have to get enough thickness so you can smooth off the nibs without cutting into the thread again. I would suggest 400 wet or dry paper and sand lightly. You may need to apply a couple of coats before you try sanding. If you needed CP then be sure to apply that first before another coat of finish or you will have blotchy areas and you will have to cut it off and start over. Good luck....

For next time - epoxy is SIMPLE. Just apply it and dont' do anything else. Don't tack it, don't hide it in a corner for 8 months, dont' scuff it with anything - just apply coat after coat until it's teh desired thickness, adn you'll have none of these problems. You may have bubbles, you may have sags, some "professionls" still have epoxy climbing up the guide leg all teh way to teh base of teh guide ring - you can work on that

Billy's right next time cover it if you are not going to coat the threads for a while.
make sure the area is clean, a spray bottle of water is good to spray around the area to keep dust down - don't spray the rod - a little air to blow off dust and a soft brush
A good coat to cover the wraps well, if you see a " hanger " under any wraps " drip " just touch it with the brush and it is gone.
Your first rod and your nervious, after a while it will be secound nature.
If you don't like it you can redo it, your a custom rod builder !!

Thanks guys!

I think I'm just going to try a healthy third coat, and a fourth if necessary. The finish is not thick at this point and can easily stand a total of four, if necessary.

Jim - I used PacBay green thread that was included with the H&H kit I purchased and did not use CP. I think if I had used CP, I probably would have had to start completely over. This rod was meant to be strictly for the learning experience before starting a "keeper". I sure am learning a lot, especially from all you "pros" responding to my questions.

Tom - you mentioned never to use solvent, tape, etc. in the preparation for the finish. After I read that, I remembered that after sanding I wiped the wraps with alchohol. Knowing this, is there anything I should do prior to the next application of finish to prevent additional problems?

As to one of my original questions, how much difference does the quality of brush make in the finish appearance? I used a #4 sable artists brush. Are the disposables adequate?

Three tips you may try! One is to pack the threads tight and uniform and also burnish the packed thread with a burnishing tool, by burnishing the thread you flatten it and fill in any small gaps. To remove fuzz from the threads, I use an alcohol lamp to flame off the frizzes.
Good Wraps Bob

Three tips you may try! One is to pack the threads tight and uniform and also burnish the packed thread with a burnishing tool, by burnishing the thread you flatten it and fill in any small gaps. To remove fuzz from the threads, I use an alcohol lamp to flame off the frizzes.
Good Wraps Bob

i've used the disposable brushes with flex coat lite several times with little problem if at all. but i've since moved to the plastic credit card method and it works very well.

eric
fresno, ca