Do you shorten the foot by a third? A quarter? Narrow it by half? How much do you take off?

I've often done nothing to them....and every thing turns out wonderful....

Keith

I really don't take off length. What I try to do is thin the tip at a low angle. This makes the slope less steep and the initial bump (from blank to guide) smaller. That helps the thread climb the guide, and makes wrapping a little easier.

I usually grind the foot very thin and then round over edge of the tip slightly so there is no sharp edge.

Christian

I agree with Christian , grind down enough to get a smooth transition point for the thread.On another note make sure you check the bottom side of the guide for the edge lap hangover, (sharp edge pointing down into the blank).Dremels have a tendency to create a sharp edge on the underside of the guide foot if it grinds around the guide edge.This will create a shear point when wrapped and could cause the blank to snap where the edge of the guide is when put under stress.I had two factory built fenwick rods that broke right where the guide edge was because of the sharp underside of the guide ,,,(and yes some factory rod guides are ground down to help with guide wraps).Also take the time to clean up any dremel grind marks with smooth emery cloth so you don`t fray the thread while wrapping.
Bill Britt

One thing not mentioned yet is that the foot is ground thinner to make it more flexible. A thick foot has no give to it so when the rod flexes under the guide, the foot doesn't and can cause the wrap finish to crack, if not worse.

I try and make it thinner as well as making the ramp angle shallower. I go over the edges with the diamond surface on my Leatherman file to debur and smooth the surface.
I also grind the upper surface corners to make my tunnels smaller, and chainsaw file the underside to make it sit better on the blank. It' s alot of work, but I get results that work for me and look quite smooth.
Forgot to mention that those little stickout bumps on the side come off as well. Makes keeping the thread closely packed much easier.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/24/2005 02:23AM by Ted Morgan.

I start by looking at the width of the guide versus the blank diameter. I don't want the guide to overhang the blank so I'll reduce the width of the foot if needed. Then I taper the foot to a very shallow taper starting about half way back and working out towards the foot end.