SPONSORS
2024 ICRBE EXPO |
First Rod - Choosing a Blank
Posted by:
Tom Danielson
(---.dtccom.net)
Date: November 22, 2005 07:22PM
Looking for a rod to build that will be used in creeks for smallmouth. I have 2 Berkley IM7 Bionix. One is 6'6" the other is 6'0". medium and medium heavy for up to 14lb test. I use a baitcasting reel (Chronarch) and really enjoy it and have no plans to get back to spinning rigs.
The 6'6" was too long overall for the close quarters TN streams always slapping the water behind me or just too long for that low lying branch. The 9" butt was always in my thigh when casting in close quarters. The 6' seemed to be the answer with a shorter butt (7") and used it exclusivlely through the summer. Im usually casting 25-35' often as close as 10'. I would like to build a rod keeping the cost of the blank under $100.00. I generally use 8# braid with a leader twice my rod length using 8# Vanish and lots of Case 6" rubber worms generally little a weight usually no more than a finishing nail. I was thinking a rod about 2" longer would give me that extra distance and should still be stiff enough for good hookset with often very limited rod motion most times very limited room for the rod because of overhanging limbs. The 6' Berkley has really given me the control I like and I have been able to shoot the worms into some tight spots but maybe another 2" could help me get it out just a little furthur. What about the St. Croix SCIII 3C62MXF 1pc 8-14#3/16-5/8 .510" 5.0 tip and runs about $75.00. Re: First Rod - Choosing a Blank
Posted by:
Raymond Adams
(---.hsd1.ca.comcast.net)
Date: November 22, 2005 10:10PM
Hi Tom,
The St. Croix would be one of several good choices. If I were to build a rod to fish the conditions you discribe I would look at 5 1/2 ft. blanks with the needed specs. and install a "pistol grip" type handle effectivley extending the blank another 6-8 in. and still have a completed rod of less than 6ft 6in. The St. Croix you mention I beleive is 5ft.2in. ( the "62" in the model number refers to inches I think?) Look at Batson, G.Loomis, Dan Craft, and of course St. Croix to start with. They all have great blanks and great service. Especially Dan Craft and Batson! Good luck with your project! Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/22/2005 10:12PM by Raymond_Adams. Re: First Rod - Choosing a Blank
Posted by:
Ellis Mendiola
(---.dsl.hstntx.swbell.net)
Date: November 23, 2005 12:58AM
The 3C62MXF blank is 6'2". I have a 3C68MXF that is 6'8". The blank is very light, has a lot of back bone, but the extra fast tip makes it easy to cast. a wide range of lures. I have used mine to cast Senko worms with nothing but the hook as weight and for top water lures. Those blanks are great to fish. I don't think you can go wrong buying one. With the 3C62 I would put a seven inch rear grip. Because I do a lot of two handed casting in saltwater, I put a nine inch rear grip on mine. The rod balances very well with a Curado reel. And yes, I do use Senko worms in the salt. You won't have any trouble with a hook set on that blank. I catch a lot of sheephead with mine and that fish has a very tough and bony mouth. Re: First Rod - Choosing a Blank
Posted by:
Chuck Ungs
(---.dsl.iowatelecom.net)
Date: November 23, 2005 10:48AM
You will like the blank you mentioned - I have one of the SCV63MXF cut down to 6' that I use for smallies in the same stream situations you are talking about. Mine is done up as a spinning rod but it is an excellent action for this type of fishing. I have built up the 63MXF in the SC3 material as a spinning rod and they are excellent as well. Both very versatile rods. Good luck and let the taildancers go to fight another day!
Chuckles Re: First Rod - Choosing a Blank
Posted by:
Tom Danielson
(---.dtccom.net)
Date: November 23, 2005 11:58AM
I really appreciate the feedback. Ive tried a pistol grip rod but didnt do well accuracy wise. It was an Ugly Stick and for what ever reason i was all over the place. I think for the first rod I'll use the St. Croix with a 7" butt and 3" fore grip. For fun I'm thinking about cutting the handle off the Ugly Stick adding a TN grip shortening the whole thing about 12". Its just collecting dust now anyway. From your inputs the 6'2" St Croix is a good place to start. (And always let them come back to fight another day.) How does a TN grip work with a baitcasting reel? I like the idea of being able to position the reel with the option of putting the reel exacting where I want it. I think I'm correct in calling it a TN grip, cork handle and 2 slideing rings? Re: First Rod - Choosing a Blank
Posted by:
Raymond Adams
(---.hsd1.ca.comcast.net)
Date: November 23, 2005 07:18PM
Tom,
If you are used to a trigger the TN handle might feel awkward at first. Your chronarch should work fine with the TN style though. You might need guides with a slightly higher frame depending on how high the reel sits in relation to the blank. Raymond Adams Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it.. Re: First Rod - Choosing a Blank
Posted by:
Spencer Phipps
(---.il-chicago0.sa.earthlink.net)
Date: November 23, 2005 08:20PM
The St Croix would certainly work. I think the finest smallmouth creek blank on the planet is the G Loomis GL3 SJ700. More backbone than you think for it's rating, light tip, and it throws light stuff into next week accurately. Re: First Rod - Choosing a Blank
Posted by:
Tom Danielson
(---.dtccom.net)
Date: November 24, 2005 11:24AM
Im wondering if the GL3SJ700 set up as a bait caster would get the same results. I like the light line light bait features and the length and for a spinning rig I wouldnt hesitate to to try it but what could I expect with my Chronarh? Would I be getting into trouble with distance. I already have minimized the amount of line on the reel to about 75yd and that helps to get it out just a little furthur and lets me throw light weight baits with minimal backlash. The 5'10" length would really help in the brush and cover I generally fish. Baitcaster? What do you think?
I didnt think about the blank thru reel seat I just saw in a catalog. Rather than the TN handle for sensitivity? Re: First Rod - Choosing a Blank
Posted by:
Spencer Phipps
(---.ca-sanfranc0.sa.earthlink.net)
Date: November 25, 2005 03:04AM
Tom,
Have made both spinning and casting rods with this blank, they work great either way. I'm sure your reel would work well as I was using the old Shimano graphite Bantam Crestfire 101 with that blank years ago with good results. I was throwing down into the size #2 trout spinners and 4 inch slider worms with that combo on 6 lb Ande Tournament line. Still have the spinning version in the old Loomis IM6 but sold the casting rod many years ago to a fellow in Florida that throws small baits in the watertraps at the golf course he lives on in Florida for panfish and many LM bass with it. Last I seen it had an old Shimano Bantam 100EX reel and Fireline 4/10 line on it. I built it with a Wiebe blank thru pistol grip # 774 kit, popular back than, but not necessary. Re: First Rod - Choosing a Blank
Posted by:
Tom Danielson
(---.dtccom.net)
Date: November 25, 2005 02:12PM
Spencer I might go ahead and give it a shot. Thanks for the tip. What guides did you use? I would use the same reel seat but probably not a pistol grip.
Tom Re: First Rod - Choosing a Blank
Posted by:
Tom Danielson
(---.dtccom.net)
Date: November 25, 2005 02:12PM
Spencer I might go ahead and give it a shot. Thanks for the tip. What guides did you use? I would use the same reel seat but probably not a pistol grip.
Tom Re: First Rod - Choosing a Blank
Posted by:
Spencer Phipps
(---.lsil.com)
Date: November 26, 2005 05:38PM
That was some time ago, before the Alconite guides came out so I used the Fuji SiC guides. If I remember right I put a Fuji high frame gunsmoke SVSG #10, SVSG #6, than SG # 6 fly guides to a LST #6 tip. Put them on top the blank, the high guides were popular back than. I think it distributed out to 7 and the tip with the fly guides on it. With the light tip I think the tip guides were no further than 3.5 to 4 inches apart for a while.
This blank was recommended by Stan Fagerstrom, the world famous trick caster many years ago. It's one of his all time favorites. Re: First Rod - Choosing a Blank
Posted by:
Tom Danielson
(---.dtccom.net)
Date: November 26, 2005 09:15PM
Thanks again for your feedback. I just finished making my spool tensioner and rod wrapping jig is in progress. Might have it ready to assemble tomorrow. A question about coating the wraps. Can it be done successfully without a drying motor or would I likely end up with the coating sagging to the low side. I see some motors on @#$%& 8-12 rpm's for about $15.00. I dont plan on motorizing the wrapping jig at this time but Im thinking it would be worth the few bucks to keep the clear coat uniform.
Have you done any of the "fancy" butt wraps? Is there a video that you have used that you might recommend? I do have some books that explain it fairly well (as well as a book can I suppose). Im not looking to get elaborate but at some point I can see trying a few of the simple chevrons maybe (is that an oxymoron?). I think that the rod your suggesting might be just what Im looking for and will probably order it in the next few days. Custom Tackle is a supplier that is local (Shellbyville TN) and if he doesnt have it I'll ask him to get it for me. I'll let you know how it works out. Tom Re: First Rod - Choosing a Blank
Posted by:
Spencer Phipps
(---.lsil.com)
Date: November 27, 2005 07:03PM
For the fancy butt wrap, if you can find the right color combo you can use the single thread of your guide wrap color and center everything up as in the instructions in your book. Than use Gudebrod Holographic Braid for the rest of it. It's a 1/8 inch braid ribbon that sure simplifies your first wrap attempt. The good people at Custom Tackle will have it and be able to show you the ins and outs fo the project. Your first wrap and some later ones till you get the feel will have problems with thread packing (keeping them close together) and correctly tensioned. (At least I sure did).
My first rod was done without a drying motor. I just put on the finish, let it set about 4 or 5 minutes to get a decent sag at the bottom, than took the sags off. Than started rotating the blank by hand every minute or so initially, while I kept the original leftover epoxy in front of me to check how the stuff on the rod was doing without touching it. As it got thicker I turned it less, till when I stuck a needle in it the depression didn't fill back in. Than I quit turning it and left it alone till the epoxy on the foil was hard. Still have the rod and it don't look to bad for a first attempt, and it has no droops. When the addiction takes full hold on you, you'll get a drying set up. Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
|