for quite a while now if have been using a water based urothane as a color preserver with very good results. the brand is olympic water based urothane. it is kind of the consistancy and color of soy milk but dries clear and glossy. the only problem was that it did darken the
thread about one shade on a 10 point gray scale. the other day i tried something interesting. i used a product called aerogloss. it is a dope for coating silkspan on model airplane wings. i first tried just the aerogloss applying one coat. when the thread wrap dried it was absolutely the color on the spool. no loss of brighness. however, when i applied spar varnish it tended to penitrate and darken the thread. i then coated another wrap (on a test stick) with the aerogloss and let dry thoroughly. i then applied a coat of
the water based urothane. when that dried i applied spar varnish. the wrap is absolutley as bright as the spool. no darkening at all. not sure about how well this will hold up long term but the technigue does get me the brightness i want. have only tested this with a hand appliction and not in a dip tube since i don't use one. i guess that would be the ultimate test of any color preserving process.

I posted on this site and others many months ago about using airplane dope as a cp. It seems that few people took up my idea. Im glad you tried it. I use 2 coats before applying epoxy. You should try using more coats of dope because on model airplanes "Nitrate dope" seals the balsa frame from fuel oils it should do the same with spar varnish without the urothane. Most Aerogloss formulas are Butryte and do not seal as well as Nitrate. BTW. I find that 4 coats of clear dope alone will seal wraps and no other type of coating was needed, giving the rod an old fashioned raised tread look.. Bob.

I will use more coats when i actually use this on a rod. my next rod will be wound with silk black and orange twist (which is really more brown). i may try the four coats. i also have another bottle of "dope" and i will see if that is a nitrite based product. thanks for the info.

Larry, Angler's Workshop, a sponsor on the left has a brew especially for silk on bamboo... give them an email or look up their catalog.. That may help ya with the color problem... varnish has a tendency to penetrate the cp, I have had the same problem for years... I have used up to 5 coats of flex coat cp and then dipped the section and the color was fine. I am always trying new things.. Blond dewaxed shellac with absolute alcohol is a very good cp and can be used with varnish.

Tight lines to all ~~

Aerogloss is essentially clear lacquer, which was used in the old days as a color preserver. It is specially formulated for outdoor use on model planes, but it has the same effect as the old lacquer. (many modern lacquers for wood finishing have an amber tint which affects the clor, but Aerogloss is "water clear".) Like any lacquer, you need multiple coats. I thin the first one about 20% and then add two full strength ones. It is fully compatible with oil-based varnishes.

Those of us that do bamboo like to use it as clear coating on blued components as well.

--Rich