That's why I never Email you with any questions. I figured you get enough of them, and simple ones that take a little common sence to figure out.

As long as there is no reason that the way I was thinking did not screw up the system in any way.
There is always a better way " to skin a cat "

Thanks

Precisely. The only thing you don't want to do, is change things up from the system instructions and then if it doesn't work well go and tell people "the bumper spiral wrap system doesn't work very well." That happens quite often. It's like taking a recipe and failing to follow the instructions or substituting other ingredients than those given and then complaining to the person that gave you you the recipe that the pie doesn't taste good.

So you either have the Bumper System, or you have your own personal variation of that or some other system.

.................

I just skip the step of putting the guides on top of the blank.

ARRRRGH!!

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..

I'm going to be guilding a steelhead rod on a Rainshadow 993 blank.....a casting rod.

I won't be using the bumper wrap (as I'm too much of a dinosaur) but has anybody out there built a steelhead rod with the bumper system? Seems like I'm reading about a lot of rods in the 6-7 ft range.

Keith

I've already helped a local guy set two of those up. From what he's telling me, the work exceptionally well.

The Bumper System just does what other spiral wrap methods do without the use of transition guides. It provides a very straight line path, is terribly easy to set up and doesn't inhibit casting or other fishing qualities (nor do most other spiral wrap methods).

Keep in mind that rod length does not matter. The line is underneath the rod by the second guide (which is where it naturally wants to go anyway) and thus what takes place from on out is all underneath the rod.

............