Help guys,
I need help i just goofed bad on two wood grips. I have a Jet mini lathe. But how can i drill out my grips with short bed? I have a drill chuck and three jaw chuck. I was drilling them out when my grip snapped in two . Do i have to buy a extension bed???? And my holes were off center a little okay a lotLOL. Thanks Marcel

You would want to chuck the grip into the headstock chuck. You may require a steady rest, several of which are available for the various mini or midi lathes. How long are your grips? You may well require the bed extension.

Drill bits tend to follow the grain and try to avoid hard or highly figured areas. I've done best with pilot point bits from B&D and DeWalt, but any similar type bit will work. These tend to bore straight down the center of the wood rather than deflecting off a bit to one side or the other when encountering hard areas in the wood. Remember to withdraw the bit to clear the wood chips at regular intervals - don't force things. When you feel a difference in how it's boring, withdraw and clear the chips. If the grip gets hot - withdraw the bit and let it cool a bit. It's unusual that you can bore more than a couple inches at a time. In some woods, you'l be lucky to bore an inch before needing to withdraw the bit.

Center boring is a learning experience. I'm sure I've ruined more grips than you during my early days trying to find the best way to do this.

.....................

I drill 8" blocks that I turn for grips with a short bed Jet. If I were to do a lot of it I would get an extension but here is how I manage.
I find the center of the block to start my drill bit and then mount my rectangular 1 1/2" X 1 1/2" block in my four jaw chuck only fairly snug. I then move the tailstock in place to start drilling while lining up my drill bit with the center I have already marked. Once I have firm contact I finish tightening my four jaw chuck. For this initial drilling I use a short (roughly 5") sharp brad point bit. After reaching the full depth provided by this bit I switch to a 10" sharp brad point bit. In order to use it the tail stock needs to be removed from the bed while the longer bit is inserted and must be reengaged to the bed as the bit is inserted into the hole. This process of removal and reengagement will need to be repeated as often as the hole needs to be cleaned.
This isn't an ideal process but it works with fair accuracy if you run your lathe at its lowest speed, use a sharp brad point bit and clean the hole whenever pressure and heat start to build. A high pitched squeek signals the need for cleaning.
If you are trying to drill a pre existing hole to a larger size it must be done slowly and patiently with frequent cleaning. I don't bother with the lathe in this case I simply install a sharp bit in a hand held chuck and turn by hand. Persistance pays in this case.

Stan Grace
Helena, MT
"Our best is none too good"

I have done a few wood grips and what I have learned is:
1st drill the hole before you turn the handle down, this will keep the thing from cracking and breaking on you.
2nd go slow, it will stay on center better, if you think you are going too slow you are probably about right.
3rd drill it out and then put it on a mandrel if you want things to be concentric.

Tom was right on the clean it out frequently if you don't it is going to bind up on you. I back off and restart about every 1/2 inch or so.

Marcel,
Scott's advice is right on the mark!

Stan Grace
Helena, MT
"Our best is none too good"

Stan,

Whre did you find 10" brad point drill bits?
Stan, also

I've found a little bar soap on the bit when you clear the chips helps stop it from heating up a bit.

Any one use Forstner bits?

I use them to to drill out the hood recesses but don't have one small enough to bore out the entire grip. Was thinking about getting a smaller bit and extension and trying it.

Tony

I got several different size 10" long brad point drills at Woodcraft for what I use myself.

Stan
The 10" bits are available in the "Woodcraft" catalog.
Stan

Stan Grace
Helena, MT
"Our best is none too good"

I too use a forstner bit for recess work but don't feel that using an extension in order to drill through 7" or more would work well for accurate boring. In most instances the extension connection would be difficult to true compared to a solid shank bit.

Stan Grace
Helena, MT
"Our best is none too good"

One trick Stan showed me on getting the mandrel into that tight hole after the drilling is to chuck the mandrel into a drill and slowly turn it while putting it into the drilled hole. Same with removal...

Putter
Williston, ND

Thanks Mike & Stan for the info on 10" brad point bits at WoodCraft. Just what I was looking for - a set of them was ordered.
I get their catalog but somehow overlooked them.
Stan