While I have not removed the cork grip from the madrel yet it appears that the titebond III has discolored or left residue on the mandrel. What is the best way of cleaning the residue. I hope that it has not etched the mandrel surface. I do not want to damage the mandrel finish. I did coat the mandrel with parafin first. I thought I got it pretty well covered but it looks like I missed some of the mandrel.

I was thinking soap and water then brillo if necessary.

thanks

john kepka

I'm not familiar with Titebond, I have scraped Rod Bond off my Mandrels with a Razorblade just fine. I do coat my Mandrels with Pledge every so often, and once in a while to clean it up Boeshield T9, (I ream everything to remove this from teh ID of the grip before installing), and usually a scrape with the razorblade will flake the Rod Bond off fairly easily.

John, I usually Scotchbrite mine to clean any residue left from the Titebond. Afterwards, I wipe them down with alcohol, then coat with a good auto wax, until next time.

Regards......Doug@
TCRds

It's partly rust - the moisture in the Titebond is doing it. Just clean it off as quickly as you can. There is no surface coating on the mandrels - no plating or such. So use Scotchbrite to take the rust off. As long as you do this within about a day or so, you won't have any real harm done to the mandrel.

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Tom the one spot did look rusty. I probably should have coated them before. I will do them all with some paste wax. What about HUt pen polish?

Anything like that is probably okay, but remember that once you wax them, the cork won't stay tight on the mandrel while turning. You need some friction there to keep things in place while turning.

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I noticed that the canning wax goes on a little lumpy providing some friction. I would just hate to get them all pitted and rusty.
thanks

WHat's the problem is they get "rusty". I have 2 sets of MAndrels from 2 people, one set is all dark colored, "rusty", the other, which is new is still shiny and new looking. I do not think you need to worry about oxidation, I would worry about keeping them straight & not bending them by accident.

Just a cautionary note to all who use waxes as a parting agent on molds. The waxes really act as
a good primer for adhesives unless they are POLISHED. After applying the wax or waxy compound,( use a clean rag to apply the wax and to remove the excess) allow the solvent to evaporate and when you are sure that the compound is completely dry -- briskly polish with another clean rag until you get a shiny surface. Now you have a parting surface. Some waxes and paraffins can be applied while in the solid stage -- they have no solvent carrier. These still need to be polished after application to the mold or their releasing properties will be somewhat compromised.

Ralph

Thanks, Ralph, for that useful tip!

This site keeps having new info from really knowlegable folks. When you think it can't get better, the wealth of info gets better.

This does not pretain to cleaning. It does reference a way to protect the mandrel from glue coating and sticking. I've found that wrapping the mandrel with Teflon tape (pipe tape) provides an excellent non-stick surface for mandrels and all thread and it is easily replaced.