I build around 7-10 rods a year for relatives and friends. Use a lot of handmade tools and have learned most everything from this forum. I want to try to turn my own cork handles. What's a simple method for locking down an electric drill so it is stable and plum? I don't plan to make wood handles (yet!). I looked at some lathes and they are just out of my price range at this point. A year ago I tried my first feather inlays and was pleasantly surprised how they came out, so maybe it will happen with the handles. This is addicting! Thanks for your help. Steve

Just put it on some wood blocks with the handle pointing up then tie it down with hose clamps. There are setups like this in the photo section built by others. Look for Bill Boettcher's photos in the equipment and tools section, there are others also for just about anything elas you need if your a tinkerer.

here is how I did one, similar to the flex coat one. [www.rodbuilding.org]

Bill, how exactly do you secure your blank to your drill? I've tried a couple different settups putting the inserts into the blank bottom, used the tape and all that, and I can't find a darn thing that doesn't either rip the tape eventually or crack the blank from being wedged in alil too tight. It seems like you take alott care w/ your tape job, is that your secret?

Regards,
-j

Steve,Before you try to make something to secure a drill for a lathe.You might want to go to the top of the page and click onto the photo page , go all the way top the bottom left corner you will see a photo of the Grizzly hobby lathe that Bill Barkley posted.
I sent and got me one and I love it.I have cut and cluded up some eva grips and turned them,and they came out great.Have not done any cork yet but that's next.
They have a web site . Just click unto Grizzly.com and look under hobby lathes.

Hope this was some help,Good luck. <<<<Don AT HOBBY RODS>>>>>

Joe
As of now and I find it works very well, I find a scrap blank that the cork fits tightly. But before I use it, I also find another scrap blank that fits inside the first and epoxy one into the other to make them strong and so they don't flex.
I am sure you could get the metal rods in several sizes for this also. I had a lot of blanks so I used them.
I just tighten them into the chuck of the drill. Some times it helps to put one or two turns of tape before putting in the drill helps to keep them tight.
With two blanks together they are also stronger and don't crush in the chuck.

My drill has a locking triger, and is two directional.

If you have the room a lath is a lot nicer



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/03/2005 12:00AM by bill boettcher.

Here is the Grizzley. About $40 (I would order the drill they recommend ($40) as some guys have said that their drill didn't fit! [www.rodbuilding.org]

Turn the grips on a mandrel then ream and put on the blank (the first blown up blank cured me of trying that)

If you want to do it on the blank, order an additional headstock piece (I think that it was about $10-15) and stick a $4 dollar ATV wheel bearing in it and just shim the blank with masking tape to get a snug fit in the wheel bearing.

Laying a towel or something over a long blank will help control the "whipping"

Mike