Hi Everyone:

I just finished wrapping a set of 7 rods. They turned out fine, but I neglected to label them. The blanks are all black, but the butt section of each rod has a large section of solid blue covered by flex coat.

I was thinking of running off a set of clear address labels on a laser printer with the text I want. Cut them to size and attach them to the underside of the butt section of the rods (on top of the flex coat). Then, apply another layer of flex coat over the top of the labels.

My concerns are:
1) Will the text on the labels run when the flex coat hits it?
2) Will the text on the labels fade from the sun?
3) Would an ink jet printer be better for the labels?
4) If I use a Brother P-touch to make them, would that make any difference?

I realize that I can order labels from places like decal connection, etc. but I'd like to avoid the extra cost if possible.

Thanks in advance

Dan Nichols

You may want to shoot an email to Decal Connection or one of the suppliers that provides custom decals. If you have 7 rods, that would justify the cost. Most other label is less that the best.

Depends on what color you want the label to be printed in. If your choice is white, then you will have to either paint or wrap the label area white prior to applying the label and make the label background to match the blank. Laser Jets and Ink Jets cannot print in white.

You would need to coat the label with either CP or a Fixative to keep the ink from bleeding.

Yes they fade badly!

Still you should consider IMHO Decal Connection. The extra cost is hardly nothing compared to your time and components to create a custom rod.

Regards......Doug@
TCRds

Pennywise, pound foolish!!! Spend the bucks and get the best from Decal Connection. Inkjets fade even worse

Mike

i don't know about printing on address labels, but you can do it on paper. with a laser printer and good paper you can make labels. you need to make the label, spray label with krylon matte finish spray, then put cp on it. then you can put your epoxy over it. do a search for making your own labels. if all of your labels are going to be the same i would opt for decal connection. good luck.

That's just the problem...each label will be different.

I want each label to have my name, the blank model and the line rating.

Example:
Dan Nichols
Seeker 670
20 (30) 40

My understanding from looking at decal connection is the cost savings comes in when you have multiple labels of the same thing.

How about the Brother P-touch idea?

I have done this a few times myself. I have epoxied right over the labels without any other protection like CP or whatever. I did not have any problems with the ink running. I use HobbyPoxy finish. The problem I have is that you can only do this over a light colored background, such as a white blank or a honey blank. Also, the "clear" Avery labels that I use are not as clear as you would like them to be, so sometimes you can sort of see the label in the finished result.

Around $3 a label is a small price to pay for a beautiful metallic custom label.

Mike

Around $3 a label is a small price to pay for a beautiful metallic custom label to put on a custom rod.

Mike

Decal or laser printer will work.
Decal will be thinner.
Use the lase printer to print white. Print a "text box" that has black background with white font. Cut out the rectange label. Use a black sharpie to color edges. Round the corners to make it easier to stick on. Use double stick scotch tape and apply to rod. Apply label and make sure all edges are sticking. Trim off excess double sided tap with razor knife and remove "tape glue". Coat label with CP making sure to saturate edges and where the tape glue was. Repeat CP. Apply finish.

The finish needs to be high build and will probably require 2 coats due to the thickness of this method. You can eliminate the tape and make it thinner by using CP as the glue. It is more difficult to get the paper label to adhere to the round blank with only CP. The additional thickness over an already finished rod will either be viewed as "way cool" or a totally screwed up job. Beauty is the eye of the beholder.

If you have the time, use a scrap blank to experiment. Or take the easy way out and spend the $$ on decals.

stan mclean - I saw your posting in photo's. I was wondering what you are using for paper? I've tried it by printing on and then cutout it out from photo paper in the circular end of a butt cap, cp'd it down, krylon matte sprayed (2 coats), then epoxy over and really liked the results. The toughest part was cutting it out - I got some of the circular cutters and made my own templates to help. But my experience with 'thinner' products even decals is not good...the ends keep curling up on me and I was assuming regular paper, even good paper, would curl as well and that the success with the photo paper was due to its thickness mostly...your thoughts? Not that I dont like the idea of decal connection, its great, but love the idea of learning and doing my own.

Opps, I dunno if it was timing of the post or if i just scrolled by too fast and missed it but I see the technique Scott Fossum outlined sound like it might work...makes sense anyway so I'lll try that. If you ahve any other thoughts thought that would be great as well. Thanks.

i use real high quality printer paper. i use Best Test Paper Cement to glue the label to the blank.

1) Will the text on the labels run when the flex coat hits it?

It shouldn't; Krylon Fixative would be a surer bet. Do a practice and find out.

2) Will the text on the labels fade from the sun?

With a laser printer, I don't know. Do a search?


3) Would an ink jet printer be better for the labels?

NO!!! Definite fade problems there; believe me!!


4) If I use a Brother P-touch to make them, would that make any difference?

I don't have any knowledge personally with these; there's been many posts on it though; again, a search!!


Putter
Williston, ND

See the links below to some useful ink fade/test and protection info i found a while back.
Hope this hepls.

[www.livick.com]
[www.livick.com]

I've been convinced that decal connection is the way to go. I was under the false impression that the decals would be more expensive than the $3 that they are. (I'd seen a price on a competing website of almost $8 per label).

I haven’t received my labels yet as I only ordered them today. However, I am already impressed with my dealings with them. They are a class act.

Thanks to all who responded and kudos to decal connection.

Dan Nichols

for these ?
sorry, haven't been online in a while


1) Will the text on the labels run when the flex coat hits it?

Yes. You need to use CP to "fix" the laser "toner" . Be very careful when applying the CP or it will cause it to run. I just daub the 1st coat on. I put a total of 3 coats of CP make sure the lable face and edges are coated.

2) Will the text on the labels fade from the sun?

No fading. Main concern is to make sure the edge of the paper label has been sealed w/CP and then with the epoxy finish. If you have a ridge at the edge of the label after the 1st epoxy coat, it is a potential entry point for water. I hate ridges and will apply another thin coat of epoxy to eliminate the ridge.


3) Would an ink jet printer be better for the labels?
Don't know. I always use a laser. Learn 1 method and practice till perfect. When you get it perfected, it's very easy to make great labels.


4) If I use a Brother P-touch to make them, would that make any difference?
I have not used this. I assume you are talking about a labelmaker. The good/easy thing about using a wordprocessing program and laser printer is that you get to choose lots of different fonts and font sizes. I use a different size for each rod depending on the diameter of the blank and how many characters is in the label. You can use size 2 font and make a poem that would fit (needs better eyes than mine to read).


If you want a sample of the labels, email me and I'll email you some that you can print. I'm not implying that this is the best method for labels, just the method that I use.

Scott Fossum