Anybody have any info on doing this at home..... I have heard of guys using Acetone & plexiglass(acrylic). Acrylic melts in acetone making a liquid...then you use airpressure...100psi for about 48 hrs to impregnate the wood. Does anyone have a simply way to set up the air chamber...please let me know. Also is it best to impregnate the blank then turn it...or turn it then impregnate the finshed spacer.

Also any other pertinent info or source would help.

Thanks,

I think there is a guy who does this - he charges by the pound. If you dont' come up with something satisfactory, you could rough turn & bore your wood, then send it to him as it will be lighter & cheaper.

I would think it's easier to bore & rough turn it down. After you stabilize the wood will change shape slightly, so if you turn it down as you would a finished seat, you'd be screwed.

For the record, I've never done this, I'm jus tregurgitating what I've read in the past.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/25/2005 04:41PM by Billy Vivona.

If you use the search function and just type in " Stabilizing Wood" you will come up with over 2000 posts regarding the pros & cons of stabilizing wood in the last year..

Bob,

I tried that and came up with the the 3 replies above....I read this post almost daily and haven't seen anything in the last 6 months about how to do this.

Anybody with some info for DIY please advise

Open search
type in "Stabilized wood"
on the drop down menu select "Any words"
on the next drop down menu select "Last Year or Any Date"

And then click "Search"

Last year = 2026 posts
All Dates = 6594 posts



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/25/2005 11:49AM by Bob Crook.

Like Bob said, Unless you specify different, the search only goes back 30 days

Mike

Check out: [www.arizonasilhouette.com]

Be aware that doing this yourself is actually fairly dangerous. The thinner for the resin is highly flammable and it has to be done at very high temperatures. There are several sources for stabilized wood.

You can do the "poor man's" stabilization using thick CA glue. It works pretty well and helps give the wood a better finish. Andy Dear's DVD shows how to do it. Stan Grace does this with his Juniper grips and has been pleased with the results.

Joe,
I hate to break it to you, but you'll never do an adequate without a sophisticated pressure pot, special (dangerous flammable) chemicals, and a lot of experimentation. I have tried and tried to replicate the procedure, and finally gave up...and I had access to all of the above materials.

Do yourself a favor and call Mike Ludemen at WSSI...www.stabilizedwood.com. Tell him I sent you...I promise he won't hang up.


Andy Dear
Lamar MAnf.

I just soak non-resenious inserts in penatcryl (from WoodCraft) for a month and then let them dry for a time & coat them with Tru-Oil. Don't know how they'll hold up long-run. My reelseats don't tend to get very wet for any long period of time..

Thinking about using an old flea-mart pressure cooker modified to accept scuba-tank pressure to see the effect.

Stan

I failed to mention in the previous post that the actual pressurized gas (air, N2, CO2, etc.) might be an important thing to think about.