HELP....I gotta 5 day deadline to my vacation and I need to finish my daughter's rod,

I did a test with the sulky thread (pink) and it goes almost black. I usually use NCP and have never used CP...Called around and there is none local, and I caint wait on the ups man...

I thought that I could use flytying cement...maybe ??

Help...

all suggestions appreciated.

Water Based Polyurethane. Do a search on that here and it will pop up. I think the name of the product is Varathane, btu teh one I tested was a bootleg brand. It is white, but turns clear when applied & dried.

Water based acrylic varnish from the craft store. It is a milky white. They have changed the formula for Varathane 900.

Elmers Glue.......

todd

Regards,
Todd Vivian
Mud Hole Custom Tackle

todd@mudhole.com

Very Cool..

Todd, I hope yer right...

after all it is a lami blank ;-)

It'll work; probably thin it a bit?? At least the first coat.

Putter
Williston, ND

Someone told me (I don't remember if it was Ralph or Paul from Gudebrod) that this was the first CP used. If you think about what it does it makes sense. Please try it on a sample first though.

Todd

Regards,
Todd Vivian
Mud Hole Custom Tackle

todd@mudhole.com

A lot of people suspect that acrylic CP is just Elmer's Glue and water, but I think if you actually try it you'll see that it's not the same thing. Like Todd said, make up a sample wrap and try it first.

Future floor polish makes a decent CP, but it's not particularly good at keep brighter colors up on darker blanks.

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tommy "Custer" Lindsay Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I thought that I could use flytying cement...maybe

I personally use RooClear Glue and I really like it ... 5-6 drops in 2oz of water and you have
lot. This glue is used for melamine. Check online for a local distributor.

RooClearâ„¢

Multi-Purpose Adhesive
RooClearâ„¢ is a ready-to-use acrylic emulsion adhesive, capable of bonding a variety of materials and substrates. It is especially well suited for bonding difficult substrates like melamine and vinyl surfaces, as well as porous substrates such as wood and wood composite materials. RooClearâ„¢ dries quickly to produce a clear, water resistant and elastomeric bond with very high tensile strength.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/19/2005 08:35PM by Ron Hossack.

Elmers glue -- the common white glue-- is merely a vinyl, PVC to be exact. It has no barrier properties and will not suffice as a color preserver. The only technology proven to work as a barrier to subsequent coatings and still not change the color it is applied to, are the ACRYLICS and the Urethane Acrylics. Acrylic is the mainstay of all color preservatives. Both todd and Putter are referring to a white glue that I have no knowledge of -- The common WHITE glues that I am familiar will not work as a color preserver. Neither will the water based urethanes. It absolutely MUST be an ACRYLIC oriented product or you are wasting your time. All of the acrylics are not necessarily good color preservers. There was some hash recently about a product named FUTURE that was said to be the worlds best color preservative. Future is an Acrylic floor finish. It works as a color preserver on our threads sometimes, and sometimes it doesn't work worth a damn. Mostly the latter, My advice is to stay with the proven products marketed for the purpose of preserving the color on threads.
Ralph

Gel coat clear finger nail polish top coat. This is a clear Acrylic product with a uv additive.. Go to one of the Nail Parlors and try it out!! Hard as Nails! will do and have use in a pinch as a substitute while waiting for the Legends backordered U40 CP!!

Gon Fishn

Is the Sulky tread you are using the Rayon?? You might want to check out the Sulky Original Metallic # 7040 Rainbow Prism Pink, the Sulky metallic does not require CP.

Bob

The Sulky metallics & black polyester threads are the only ones I found that do not require CP, and several coats. Rayon is, IMO, the worst.

I did a test of several of the over-the -counter products and compared the color preserving effect of these with several of the products offered for rodbuilding CP.

I'm away from that info. at the present, but I seem to recall that a couple of the polyurethane products from Lowe's/Home Depot seemed to work fairly well on the yellow test thread. Probably would use 2-3 coats and do a test wrap on scrap blank. The locally procured products tested were all water-based polyurethene/acrylics. Some of the products designed for rodbuilding CP were water-based and some were alcohol-based.

Future floor polish was also included in the test, but several other products were a lot better, I thought.

I have a nearly full bottle of Future, but it has no future in threadwork that I can see. I wonder if it can be modified someway to add additional solids to make it work better?

Stan

The Elmers wood glue works I was using it . Thin it with water. Dries fast and faster with a hair dryer.
About three coats depending on how thin you make it. Make sure it is dry before you clear -- overnight.

As it turns out. Future is probably not going to pan out as a great color preserver. As I said earlier, it fails the test when used with very light colored threads on very dark blanks. Although and to be fair, that's a tough call for any product to shine at. Very few commercial CP's have ever been extremely good under those tough conditions.

.........

Underwrapping with one of the Sulky silver metallics over a dark blank and wrapping with a light color seems to help preserve the lighter colored thread, but again CP is required.

Instead of an underwrap, the adhesive holographic material also seems to work fairly well in place of an underwrap for light colors, particularly on a butt wrap.

Stan

I have a test butt wrap on NEON colors which I left sitting in the sun for 2 months. The CP's used were Flex Coat, Glass Coat, Gudebrod 811S,a dn a water based Plyurethane which I do not know the brand name of, but I was told it was the same as Varathane. All 4 worked just fine as a color preserver, and after teh 2 months in teh sun 811S was best. The other 3 all were about teh same as far as colors fading, so I previously stated, based on my test, Water Based Polyurethane will work fine as a CP.

Just because of this thread, Iam going to post a picture of this color stick so everyone can see I'm not just making stuff up, I have proof that it works. TEHr ewere also 15 other peopel there when I applied the 4 CP's, so it's not like I'm lying about using this. REgardless of what is posted by who - a 10 minute test will prove to you what works & what doesn't.

My child took an art class awhile back. Had to buy all the stuff for it. Among that stuff was

J.W. etc.'s "RIGHT - STEP" water base clear varnish.

It came from the local craft store. I have used it on thread wraps and found it to be as good as type specific preservers.

She never took another painting class....... I have a lifetime supply acrylic varnish
David A.

"Minwax Polycryllic" will work in a pinch. "Custer" please let us know what you end up youzzzing. Hope you get it done in time.

811 is a urethane/acrylic product. It was largely unknown when tested in the RodMaker article about 8 years ago. Next to the old Bullard CPX, it has the best color retention ability of any CP I've used. But unlike CPX, it's a little thick at times and can have bubble problems. It does do what it's advertised as doing, however. And does it quite well.

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