What is the best way to ream out a cork grip? I have tried a drill and spade bit but it tears up the grip pretty bad sometimes. I have been using a rat tail file lately but that takes forever and sometimes it reams out uneven if you're not careful. Any suggestions?

Have you tried using any Tapered Cork Reamers? Most of the sponsers carry them. Can also make your own with belt sander belts and old rod blanks / pieces.

Neil has a great way to do it. Coupled with the Flex Coat arbor bits, you can save quite a bit of reaming by using these to drill the grip out to just under the size of the blank.

They really work great! On cork, just be sure to drill half way from each end and take your time on longer grips and bring the bit out once in a while to clean the cuttings out of the hole. Cork will split easily and these cuttings can cause the splitting.

Putter
Williston, ND

I've used several different methods. You're right - drill bit don't do a good job. I've bought some of the tapered reamers. They are tapered sections of graphite blank material covered with abrasive grit. They work fine but will wear out over time. You can but new grit (I know that Mudhole carries it) and freshen up your reamer by epoxying fresh grit to the reamer. The method I've settled on is that I build my own. I've got plenty of sections of old rods laying around. I get a section of old rod blank (one with a spinning or fly grip still intact hopefully - it makes it easy to hold on to), buy pieces of sanding belt from the local Lowe's or Home Depot and expoxy the sanding belt on to the blank. I just coat the blank with a thin layer of quick set epoxy and then wrap the sanding belt in a circular/diagonal manner (barber pole style) around the blank. After it sets you're good to go. I keep a variety of taper and grit sizes and seem to have one for about every job that comes up. I've found that I can become so precise with reaming the grip to match the diameter and taper of the blank that I frequently don't use a winding check on fly rods that I build (I personally prefer that appearance on most rods).

Good Luck.

Sam Stoner

I've used several different methods. You're right - drill bit don't do a good job. I've bought some of the tapered reamers. They are tapered sections of graphite blank material covered with abrasive grit. They work fine but will wear out over time. You can but new grit (I know that Mudhole carries it) and freshen up your reamer by epoxying fresh grit to the reamer. The method I've settled on is that I build my own. I've got plenty of sections of old rods laying around. I get a section of old rod blank (one with a spinning or fly grip still intact hopefully - it makes it easy to hold on to), buy pieces of sanding belt from the local Lowe's or Home Depot and expoxy the sanding belt on to the blank. I just coat the blank with a thin layer of quick set epoxy and then wrap the sanding belt in a circular/diagonal manner (barber pole style) around the blank. After it sets you're good to go. I keep a variety of taper and grit sizes and seem to have one for about every job that comes up. I've found that I can become so precise with reaming the grip to match the diameter and taper of the blank that I frequently don't use a winding check on fly rods that I build (I personally prefer that appearance on most rods).

Good Luck.

Sam Stoner

I finally broke down and bough tthe FC abrasive strips. I was holding out to buy these on my own because I could save a few bucks, but I couldn't wait any longer. I made 2 reamers: 3/8 - 1/2", and 1/2" to 7/8", both are 3 feet long. I still have enough to make another 3 foot long reamer, but I will admit I did not spiral 1/4" apart, I left about 1/2". I've used both of these on EVA, and while I have reamers I made for myself which have worked just fine over teh past 3 years - tehy will never get used again.

If you have no reamers, it's just so, so, so much easier to use these over the grit. I haven't used them on cork yet, but I know others who have with great results. For EVA, it was a pleasure to use. No more high spots, no more grit getting loose (although not a problem for me, I know others have complained), and no more mess making the reamer.

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll give them a try.

By the way, How is the rod show in Charlotte. I am thinking about going but I want to make sure it is worth the plane ticket. Right now I am in the hobby stage but I want to eventually make a few custom rods to sell as a part time endeavor. How are the demos and and seminars? Thanks for the input.

Tight Lines
Dave

Dave,

You'll find your money well -spent. The seminars alone are worth going for. Throw in the vendors, demonstrations, bargains, meeting folks, etc., it's an unbelievable event to learn things. Just not enogh time to take it all in.

You'll not be disappointed, and I speak from having been to the two previous Shows. Well worth the trip!!!

Stan