Ok. Read plenty from the archieves concerning the topic but there seems to be almost as many recommendations as there are answers. ;) So I'm trying to find the ideal saw for doing the checkerboard and slicing work. Which characteristics are the most important?

Thin blade?
Flush cut?
No offset?
Cuts on pull stroke?
High teeth ratio?

I've done some browsing at the net and found two possible candidates for the job + some japane flush cut saws. The first one has:

blade thickness 0.3mm, likely no offset, teeth ratio 0.6mm/42 TPI, blade lenght 150mm, price ~40€

and the second one:

0.3mm/150mm blade, no offset, teeth ratio 1.25mm/20 TPI, price ~20€

Are these saws good for the task and which would you choose?

Cheers!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/17/2005 02:38AM by Mikko Stenberg.

Mikko--I use a razor saw, 56tpi, cut on pull. Can't rememer the blade thickness but I think it may actually be slightly thinner than .3mm...anyway it works wonderfully. I know Eden Bromfield, a veritable master of inlay work and checkerboard rings, also uses a razor saw and model mitre box.

All the best!

I use a "Flush " cut saw that cuts on the pull

[www.rodbuilding.org]
Mike

Cheers lads! Info highly appreciated! :D I guess the double price is worth it then.

Cheap X-fine exacto saw works just fine.

You can find some flush cut saws at Lows also hobie stores and wood working stores

"X-ACTO" Brand 'EXTRA-FINE RAZOR SAW SET" Model # X239 / X75350 . Contains (1) Heavy-duty plastic knife handle, with (1) Extra-fine razor saw blade. Extra-fine razor saw blade has 52 teeth per inch (tpi) and blade thickness is 0.012 inch (0.30 millimeters). The tooth depth is right about or slightly less than the thickness of the saw blade (0.3 mm). Teeth cut only in one direction (as you draw = pull toward you). Overall blade dimensions: 5.50 inches long ; 1.25 inches deep. The backbone on the saw is 3 / 8ths inch deep (0.375"), thus reducing the effective cutting depth of the saw blade to 7 / 8ths inch (0.875"). Available at MICHAELS craft store for ~ $10. I don't know if any of our RBO Sponsors has them as well. (I could not find them in the M-H or the SMRW Catalogs.)

I bought mine for rod blank trimming, and simple cork cuts. I don't do checkerboard cork. ... LOL, ... -Cliff Hall, Gainesville, FL-USA+++



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/17/2005 09:38AM by Cliff Hall.

Gentlemen:

Here's another idea that works for me. I use a jeweler's saw with a 6/0 blade. It cuts a kerf of 0.014 inch. I have very little loss to the kerf. With a 0.029" blade on a japanese pull saw, I still had significant kerf loss AND the darn pull saw just destroyed the cork. It ripped the bleep out of it and would not cut cleanly. I went to the jeweler's saw out of desperation and it works very well. Only problem now is the width of the slit on the jig. I want to have consistent cuts with little kerf loss. I want the cuts to be smooth and straight. I can get all my wants except the consistancy thing with the 6/0 blade in the jeweler's saw. I will have to have a jig made with narrower slots for the narrow blade. That will deal with the consistancy.

Doug Weber
Weber Rod Works

Cheers everybody for the input! :D Things are clearing up now. Everyones suggestions are being considered.

Doug your saw sounds pretty similar than the two options I listed above. The second one is actually listed as a "Jeweller's saw" and the first one "Razor saw". Both have 0.012" blades which also fits to your discription since 0.014" = 0.36mm. Don't know how much 6/0 is although I do tie flies.

Edit: Ooops! Had a wrong smiley here...



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/18/2005 11:17AM by Mikko Stenberg.

I am not sure what kind of cut you want to make, but, I use a "miracle blade" type of kitchen knife. Chose one with many small teeth. They can be bought at discount stores for very little, and when they grow dull just throw tit away. Most will cut on the pull only.

Those serrated Kitchen knifes, like the Ginzu - are the best saw for rough cutting EVA from block form into an Octagon so it's easier to turn on the lathe. I've also used it to make 45* cuts with a mitre box with very good results, but have gone to begging friends to use their bandsaw which is much, much more precise.

to cut cork rings i use the band saw with a home made jig and a fine blade that I use for nothing else.