when I use FC lite I put a little dab under the part of the guide (snake) that comes up from under the wrap to seal it. Since PG is quite a bit thinner how do I accomplish this particular task?

Shanon

Hey Shanon;
I started to apply PG in very thick coats to get that high build look. I took the advise of Jim Rienhardt and Jay Lancaster when I was having problems with PG finishes. They said to:
>apply PG in thick coats (I do it to the point it almost drips)
>let the coats dry for 24 hours (you have to let it finish the evaporation process or you get bubbles in the next coat)
>apply coat until you get the look you want
I have been applying 2 or 3 coats depending on the diameter or the blank and the type and size of the guides. Smaller diameter blanks don't seem to hold the wet PG on as well. I guess because there isn't much surface area for the PG to hang on to, so gravity kicks in. You said "snake guide" so I assume a flyrod or another small diameter type blank. You will probably get a good build with just one or two coats, but it depends on the look you want. I hope this helps you, I know I almost pulled my hair out trying to get the hang of PG finishes.
THANKS AGAIN to Jim and JAY.

Tight lines and clean living to all.
Paully
PW Custom Rods

I use Permagloss or Spar urethane on all my fly rod guide wraps. First coat enough to saturate the thread, not heavy, and then a second or third light coat, small diameter rods only 2 coats. To get the coating in the guide foot tunnel a tooth pick or large needle works great, dip it in the finish and then put a drop in the tunnel.

Bob

I use a fly tying bodkin for this. Bob, take a look at the Southerland & Wells varnish at the Golden Witch site. Ralph

If at first you don't succeed, go fishing, then try, try again.