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1st Timer Screw-up
Posted by:
Rusty Hodnett
(---.sc.res.rr.com)
Date: July 31, 2005 04:25PM
I'm building my first rod, a spiral wrapped 40-80 lb Seeker S-glass blank, and I've got the butt section a couple of inches too long. The rod is blank-through, and I''ve installed a reel seat, smooth-butt, and aluminum gimbal using Rod Bond. I need to know if there is any way to loosen the Rod Bond and remove the gimbal. I think I could then trim the smooth butt and reinstall the old gimbal or a new one. Rod Bond appears to be pretty permanent......
Thanks, Rusty Hodnett Re: 1st Timer Screw-up
Posted by:
bill boettcher
(---.250.168.93.Dial1.Weehawken1.Level3.net)
Date: July 31, 2005 07:35PM
You can stick it in boiling water for about 10 - 15 minutes if the gimbal will take it, it should. You may have to do this several times till it loosens. Re: 1st Timer Screw-up
Posted by:
Lou Reyna
(---.hr.hr.cox.net)
Date: July 31, 2005 08:44PM
After several tries before I gave up I have yet to loosen a rod bond or kardol paste epoxy bond with boiling water - the stuff cures concrete hard.
Your question puzzles me. Given that a slick butt kit is a given length - so you can't make it longer than it is. I assume the rod blank is protruding through the slick butt too much? If so just cut off the excess and reattach the gimbal. If the gimbal is installed on the protuding blank I would suggest you cut the thing off to reduce the risk of damaging the blank or slick butt. Gimbals are cheap compared to the other parts on the rod. Cut a long groove through the gimbal in a lengthwise fashion being careful not too cut into the blank, then try prying the groove open with a screwdriver. Give the boiling water to the cured rod bond trick a try to see if it works for you. Lou Re: 1st Timer Screw-up
Posted by:
bill boettcher
(---.250.42.174.Dial1.Weehawken1.Level3.net)
Date: July 31, 2005 10:43PM
Lou's idea sounds like it would be a lot easyer. I figured cause the rod bond was new it would have come loose quick.
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