Hi All,
My Dad has had this problem with 2 of the rods he built. He and I think maybe not
enough color preserver was applied but from what I am aware of, epoxy will just
render the regular nylon thread opaque. Correct?I have never seen or heard of this problem occuring before now and
I have built about 100 rods! Also, he said he used gudebrod mettalic thread on 1
of the rods and that thread type does not require C.P.. Can 811 CP go bad? Anyone else see this effect ?
My next step is to do some test wraps with different thread types and with/without CP both flex-coat and 811.

Thanks in advance!

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/30/2005 08:44AM by Raymond_Adams.

Are the threads packed " tight " ? Also did you let the CP dry well? Metallics do not need CP, but when used with regular nylon you would just coat right over them also.
Like you are thinking do some wraps on a piece of scrap blank and see what happens.

Hey Raymond.
I have had CP go bad in the past, BUT it had gotten a few years on it and I can't say for sure the top was on good. I had a younger person being nosey. You get the idea. As far as the splotches, I've had this happen long ago. My problem was not enough CP on white thread with nothing under it. OOPS!

Tight lines
Paully

Bad coverage with the CP and/or threads not packed well are both suspects when you get blotches. CP doesn't typically go bad - it can freeze but that usually renders it unuseable immediately.

Always put on a pretty wet coat of the CP, enough so that the thread turns uniformly dark while its wet. Other than that, keep in mind that when you're putting light colored theads on dark colored blanks, you really do need to keep the threads packed uniformly against each previous wrap. Lack of doing so is probably the #1 cause of "blotching."

..........................

Tom, Paully, & Bill,

Thanks guys! My Dad is new to to rod building so it's probable that
the threads were not as tight as they needed to be. Coverage may
have also been an issue but he told me he did apply 3 or 4 coats of
the 811 CP.
Going to do the tests and if any "strange" results are found I'll be
passing the findings on to the board.

Have a great weekend !!

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..

Sounds like the packing? Watch him next wrap and see.

Question:
Why would blotching occure due to unpacked thread wraps?
What is the blotching anyway? The blank is not black. The
thread color is not black. Where does the black blotches
come from? I assume it caused by chemical reaction of some
sort. Like I said previously, I have not experienced this my self
but I did see my Dad's rod's and it's not pretty!

Also, I just completed applying some 811 CP on a buttwrap and
I guess I applied to heavy and maybe due to the heat in the area
the 811 thickened very guickly! Started to get a heavy clear goo!
I quickly dipped the brush into some water and brushed the service
area and that seamed to thin it out OK. Man my heart was thumping!! Thought I had just ruined 8 hrs. work! This is only the second time
using the Gudbrod 811 and still not familliar with it's proporties.
Used the Flex- Coat for years but wanted to try something different for a change. I guess each have their ups and downs. At least the 811 applies clear & not milky.

I think I'll stick with the HT mettalics and skip the CP all together
although I do not like limitting my options.

Thanks again everyone,

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/30/2005 02:27PM by Raymond_Adams.

Look at the wrap under a magnifying glass. I have seen thsi same "splotching" on grey blanks with non black threads. Regardless of the colors involved, I THINK that may be just appearing very dark because of the contrast/shadow?? Use a magnifying glass, it's amzing what you can sometimes see

Thank Mike,
Will do! I didn't thik of that! Makes good sence!
also I edited my last post I suppose while you
were responding.

All responces are very much appreciated,

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..

Raymond,

The 811 CP is very thick but I have found that when it dries it is great. Don't limit yourself, play with it on a scap piece to get the feel of it. Some thin it but i don't

Mike

Mike,
Would you thin with water or isopropyl? I know water works for
flex-coat.

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..

The bottle says it can be thinned with alcohol. I feel that by thinning it, you would be weakening it's ability to do it's job. I may be wrong, but I think that if their was any advantage gained by thinning, the manufacturer would do it first and greatly increase their profits.

I just put it on straight, wait awhile and brush off excess before next coat. Has always worked for me although your mileage may vary.

1. Color Preserver (#811)
This clear quick drying and non-blushing color preserver assures complete penetration on all types of thread wraps. Fast drying, requiring 20 minutes between coatings, use this color preserver in conjunction with Gudebrod's one part regular or high build, or two part regular or high build rod finish. After applying each coat remove excess Color preserver using a brush. Convenient water clean-up.

Mike

Thanks again Mike,
"After" I posted the last question reguarding thinning I read the bottle again
and felt ignorent for not doing that first! DUH !

Hey, just received my first issue of Rodmaker (volume 8 # 3 )
WOW !! I was a fool for not subscribing sooner !!

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..