I guess I did this while removing the 2nd screwed up finish I applied. Now the question is, is this rod toast? I read somewhere that the rod will break at that point of injury(poor baby)

dick

Dick,
are you sure that you chipped the blank or just the blank finish?

Todd

Regards,
Todd Vivian
Mud Hole Custom Tackle

todd@mudhole.com

I would say it depends were the nick is, and how deepl. If it's top 60% of rod defently will break. next 20% about 50/50 chance, if it's in last 20% of rod may not break and I would chance anything in the last 40% if tthe rod is for myself. Never on a customers rod. Even if it broke in a year, at least you got a year out of it. Then strip it down and re-use the parts on your next one.

I would say it depends were the nick is, and how deepl. If it's top 60% of rod defently will break. next 20% about 50/50 chance, if it's in last 20% of rod may not break and I would chance anything in the last 40% if tthe rod is for myself. Never on a customers rod. Even if it broke in a year, at least you got a year out of it. Then strip it down and re-use the parts on your next one.

It is definitely in the graphite but a very small divot.

When you speak of the top 60% are you saying the portion starting at the tip and working to the butt?

dick

I have to disagree with the blank not failing. If it is used without a load it would be ok but if you catch fish that flex the blank into the damaged area it will fail pretty quickly.
If I were trying to save it I would fix a plug to fit inside that overlaps both sides of the chip by 1-2". Rod Bond it into place then wrap over the top.

Todd

Regards,
Todd Vivian
Mud Hole Custom Tackle

todd@mudhole.com

Todd ,I don't understand your repair procedure can we take another run at it,you are dealing with a rookie here,thanks

dick

Whether or not your blank is doomed depends on how deep and where that nick is. You certainly didn't help the blank any, but you may not be faced with certain failure, either. Maybe.

If you suspect the nick is pretty deep or it's in the area near the tip where everything is thinner anyway, you can possibly insert a scrap piece of blank inside the damaged area, bonding it in place to provide some reinforcement. However, this is not without it's own dangers. If the piece you insert and bond is terribly stiffer than the blank now, you can create sheer points at either end which will result in a likely failure at the point where either end of the repair piece resides. If you can find a fairly thin walled piece, that closely matches the taper of what you have now, then you can probably make the repair. If the nick is high up on the tip section, you may be better off with an oversleeve (fiberglass) than an inner splint or sleeve. Either way, it may not be a job for a "rookie." But if you're carefule you can possibly salvage the blank.

Where is the nick located on the blank? Near the tip? Near the butt? Mid-point? How deep?


......................

Dick,

Other above have covered this pretty well. It also can depend on the type of nick. If we are talking a cut straight into the blank wall towards the center then that is more likely to be fatal for as the blank is loaded it will tend to open up to the point that the blank fails. If it is a nick as in like a piece of blank that is chipped then that is a different story. Most well used rods get nicked like this and unless the rod is very thin walled you should be ok. There would be an awful lot of broken rods if they could not sustain a certain amount of damage. I would say a cut at right angles to the long axis of the blank would be the worst case. If it was my blank and was definataly in need of the repair as suggested by either internal or external sleeving I would look to buy another section rather than having a repair that is ugly to look at and may even not work and will most certainly effect the action on most rods especially if near to the tip end of the blank.


Mike O.

If what came off was a colored "flake", you only damaged the cosmetic layer. I had this happen on an Amtak blank when I slipped with my thread tool. It should not harm the blank at all, but you will need to do something so more of the finish doesn't come off.